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WO575 vs HD Pullback Bars

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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:35 AM
  #41  
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If there's no need to extend the wiring do you cut and resolder the wiring after threading the wiring thru the bars or do you remove the wiring pins from the connector and then reinstall after threading the wiring thru the bars?

2nd question: Do you use the OE sheathing to protect the wiring thru the bars or is there a better sheathing to use?

Thanks for all of the help.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Jerry L
That's a great post, LP. Really shows the difference between the bars. Thanks! Here's a pic I made from when I added the old style HD pullbacks to my bike vs the stock bars (2000 FLHTC). The one in front is the stock bar. The one behind is the touring bar (the bar ends are closest to the top of the page).
Jerry
Jerry, you and I have the same bike. What did you have to swap out on the cables? Also, I assume the wrist angle hasn't been an issue for you?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 09:13 AM
  #43  
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Don't cut the wires!
There is a thread in the diy section that shows installing WO 575's on an Electraglide.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Taterdog
Jerry, you and I have the same bike. What did you have to swap out on the cables? Also, I assume the wrist angle hasn't been an issue for you?
Taterdog, I changed the clutch cable to the +2" cable that HD has for these bars, but was installing an "easy clutch" at the same time, plus I already had about 33K miles on it so figured a new cable would be cheap insurance. The cable is now perfect with the same routing. The brake line I left as stock but had to reshape the bends to get it to follow the bars and it is JUST long enough. If you do a good job rebending, you'll be ok, if not, get the HD longer line. As for the throttle cables, I got 2" longer ones, but that was only because I went to a S&S carb which necessitated it because of the cable rerouting. I think the stock would be fine. I also ran my wires internally. Below is a pic. I cut 2 holes into the bottoms of the bars for the wires to exit and did not have to lengthen the wires. The bars are stainless, so my drills wouldn't even touch it, had to use carbide tips to grind thru. It took awhile, but I like how it turned out. Good luck!
Jerry
PS The wrist angle never bothered me. I had heard from some that it did for them, but not me. Feels good to me and I can still see pretty much out of the fairing mirrors.
 
Attached Thumbnails WO575 vs HD Pullback Bars-100_0146.jpg   WO575 vs HD Pullback Bars-100_0149.jpg   WO575 vs HD Pullback Bars-100_0151.jpg  
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #45  
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i was in a hurry earlier, had to head out.
Don't cut the wires. You can easily dismantle the Deutch connectors inside the fairing and run the wires without extending them , inside the bars.
Another bonus with the 1 1/4 " bars is the ease you are able to feed all the wires from an Ultra though them.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #46  
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Thanks, Jerry, got your PM about the same time I saw your post. Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for the pics and the tip on running the wiring internal. Great job!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 07:25 AM
  #47  
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Wally: Thanks for the input. I was stuck on the connector issue. HD changed from Deutch connectors to Molex connectors in 2007 and didn't update the '07 Service Manual to include disassembly and assembly of Molex connectors. If you have an '07 or know of someone who does send them to the link below. DrPlastic did a great job showing how to disassemble and assemble Molex connectors with pictures.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...onnectors.html
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 08:13 AM
  #48  
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Very helpful indeed.
Someday, I'll be damn glad I looked at that thread.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 12:11 PM
  #49  
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I recently installed a set of Khrome Werks 300515 +2 Wide Sweeper bars on my 2008 Street Glide and ran the wire internally. Here a write-up on the process, along with these pics.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 03:25 AM
  #50  
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So I am thinking about an 09 SG. I am still a little confused - I know there is a new pullback bar (HD). Does it still just take the clutch cable to make the switch. If the bike has ABS, then just one more sensor?
 
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