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Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)

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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #811  
BigGelvis's Avatar
BigGelvis
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From: Spring, Texas
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Originally Posted by dlpuette
I noticed that many tutorials have you remove the gas tank for bar swaps. Uhm... why? If you watch the LA Choppers video, the tank remains, covered, but in place. I also noticed that they remove the front passing lights bracket and simply rotate the fairing out of the way. Is this how all of you are doing it? Seems a hell of a lot easier than removing the radio!
That is the way I did it. The only two ways I see to do it is
1) Remove the radio
2) remove the passing lamps and rotate ( Tilt ) the fairing forward.

There is no reason to remove the tank unless you are replacing the front brake line, in which case a large % of guys do so that may be why you see them removing the tank.

As for me, I did not remove my tank until after I installed the new bars. Reason why was so I could make sure the bars did not hit the tank at full lock.
Most people won't have that problem but I have a 2" lift kit on my tank and even my OEM bars hit. So I had to make sure the new bars were adjusted perfect before removing the tank to install the brake line.

Another little tip for you.
After I got mine all back together, I must have knocked the bars out of adjustment a little. It would hit the tank when turning all full lock right.

I found that if I just remove the ignition and cover, I can access the front two riser bolts. I only need loosen those front two bolts to reposition the bars. I did not have to tilt the fairing forward to reach the rear bolts.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #812  
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Originally Posted by BigGelvis
...I found that if I just remove the ignition and cover, I can access the front two riser bolts. I only need loosen those front two bolts to reposition the bars. I did not have to tilt the fairing forward to reach the rear bolts.
That's tight! What did you use? Isn't that an allen bolt (can't remember)? I need to readjust mine.

You meant the rear two riser bolts, right?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #813  
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BigGelvis
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From: Spring, Texas
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Originally Posted by ramnj
That's tight! What did you use? Isn't that an allen bolt (can't remember)? I need to readjust mine.

You meant the rear two riser bolts, right?
Ha! Depends on what way you are looking at it I guess.....lol
I call em front but rear is probably better to describe them.
And it was a torx wrench, T40 if I remember right.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #814  
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Originally Posted by BigGelvis
Ha! Depends on what way you are looking at it I guess.....lol
I call em front but rear is probably better to describe them.
And it was a torx wrench, T40 if I remember right.
Lol, thanks.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #815  
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bencimino
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If the upper or lower front brake lines are going to be replaced on an abs touring bike the tank will need to come off to run the lines from either the MC or triple tree along the frame under the tank to the abs box. If it doesn't have abs it should go straight from the MC to the triple tree or just to the front disc.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 04:04 AM
  #816  
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marvincbr
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From: Shorewood IL
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The tank may not have to be pulled to install bars, but I had mine off for other reasons (routing amp power through the wiring channel to the fairing). It did make it easy to install riser bushings and new bars IMO....
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #817  
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flytens
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Originally Posted by MassHD
You both have an email
Will you send me the email on the Yaffe monkey bars? flytens@gmail.com
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #818  
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Well it's done. 12" yaffe mbb installed on 2012 FLHX. Wire extensions not needed, re route wires under radio.

Tbw had about 4" more wire, did not cut a single wire. Connectors stayed on the end of each wire no problems. Tbw did not have any issues with green plug.

Went +8 magnum black pearl upper front and mid lines as well as +8 clutch. Everything works as it should not a lot of slack but a little wiggle room just in case. I will say my least favorite part was taking off exhaust system for the clutch cable.

Did not bleed brakes abs works as it should. Pre filled upper line before installing(messy). Just pumped the shiz out of the front brake lever and bubbles went away and tension is now perfect.

Had to adjust clutch inside primary side.

Yes tank came off.

Overall I learned a ton! Very happy I did it myself but also glad I don't have to do it again anytime soon. And saved about 800-900$ in labor my dealer would have charged.
 
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Old May 4, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #819  
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stepp
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I would appreciate it if someone could send me the instructions,
thanks
corystepp@gmail.com
 
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Old May 23, 2013 | 08:17 PM
  #820  
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Matt_Sieg
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From: ohio
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I am looking to change out bars to 10" or 12" monkey bars
Any recommendations? and if anyone has instructions could they send them to mas3273@yahoo.com

Haven't bought them yet and looking for a place that sells the bars and maybe a plug n play set up
 
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