Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 695
Likes: 3
From: Kingwood, TX
Unless you just love spending money on something other than beer, wiring extensions & SE throttles are not necessary for 10" & 12" bars. As a matter of fact, after rerouting the harness, I'd bet there was enough slack for 14's.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
When I pulled wires on my 13" LA Chopper prime apes? I pulled the clutch side first. I cut the plug off and left 1" of wires on it to splice it back on if needed.
I then pulled the OEM harness thru the pars and I only have about 3" of wire length coming out of the bars. It was short enough that it was a PITA to splice and solder all the wires that close to the bars.
The throttle side, I decided to splice the wires before pulling them. And it was a good thing I did because that side was even shorter had I pulled just the OEM harness thru.
As far as the TBW goes? I firmly believe it was better to buy the CVO kit and NOT splice any wires on that one. That totally eliminates any possibility of a splice failing down the road as it is solid wire from the grip sensor to the plug.
To each his own but as much money as you are spending of installing bars and as much of a PITA as it is, I would rather spend the extra $$ and make sure it is done right the first time then to have to pullit apart and do it again later or be stranded with a short in the TBW harness.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: N.W. MO.
Cowboy
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 217
Likes: 39
From: Cleveland
I noticed that many tutorials have you remove the gas tank for bar swaps. Uhm... why? If you watch the LA Choppers video, the tank remains, covered, but in place. I also noticed that they remove the front passing lights bracket and simply rotate the fairing out of the way. Is this how all of you are doing it? Seems a hell of a lot easier than removing the radio!
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 973
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
...To each his own but as much money as you are spending of installing bars and as much of a PITA as it is, I would rather spend the extra $$ and make sure it is done right the first time then to have to pullit apart and do it again later or be stranded with a short in the TBW harness.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 34
From: Maryland
I think people are doing it both ways. I hadn't heard of the one pushing the fairing away when I did mine so I removed the stereo. I did not think removing the radio was difficult at all. On the contrary, I liked having everything out of the way while in the right position so I knew all lengths were right and all routings were correct.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 973
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
I noticed that many tutorials have you remove the gas tank for bar swaps. Uhm... why? If you watch the LA Choppers video, the tank remains, covered, but in place. I also noticed that they remove the front passing lights bracket and simply rotate the fairing out of the way. Is this how all of you are doing it? Seems a hell of a lot easier than removing the radio!
On the inner fairing, I just rotated it out of the way, but make sure its secure so it doesn't fall.
It is very easy to do...just time consuming.