This was done at a Harley dealer? Just bolted the thing on and called it good? Thats bad. Your expectations are not at all unrealistic. I thought maybe your bike was out of tune, but didn't realize they didn't tune it at all. I would take it elsewhere.

 

You need a fuel management system. A SERT or PCV will get you the performance you want. Bring it up to Salem if Doyles can't do it. Salem tuned mine on the dyno and did a great job.

Mark

 

Where is my bag of popcorn?
I will be watching this one for the back story.

 

Something doesn't smell right about this thread. The OP seems reluctant to give info and his post is just gibberish.

 

Sorry to hear of the troubles, but take a breath...(I had to, read on) I have an 09 RKC with the 103 stg II BB kit, 255 cams, but left the stock heads, pushrods, t-body etc. I have the SE Touring mufflers as well. My dealership had trouble loading in the ECM reflash so I could drive it home. Mine ran like crap as well, was PO as well after dropping the coins like you... Finally got it resolved with the Moco's tech help line, and turned out to be a intermittent pc issue with the dealer's Digitech system. My point? You may still have the stg 1 download in, or maybe something amiss along these lines. My bike pulled a little better intially, but to everyone's point already, the tune is key. I bought the SE Pro racetuner and modified my own ECM program. Boy what a difference- the tire lifts off the ground 1-2" when you jab the throttle... I do agree the dealer tech or someone should have detected this, but then again they didn't romp mine due to break in and everything newly installed... Talk with them on the issue, and i'm sure they'll make it right. Also, I know of dealerships who will just install what you want, and leave the rest up to you (like choosing a tuner, or mentioning adjustable pushrods, etc) and then other dealers that just "assume" you are willing to pay for the unmentioned extras (like adj pushrods, timken bearing upgrade, etc), so it's a tough situation. I made it a point to discuss the build on a few occasions and made notes with prices and talked with others before pulling the trigger. Hope this helps...

 

All the above is good advice but I would add that the engine could be sumping; not uncommon after a cam change and particularly if the tech was sloppy, inexperienced or just frakked up. Very easy to check; start her up and go for a run long enough to reach 200* oil temp. Park the bike and remove the crankcase plug (not the oil pan drain plug). The oil will be hot, so be prepared to let the plug drop into the drain pan. If more than 4-6 ounces drains, she is sumping. The cure is to realign the oil pump or replace the scavenge port o-ring.

The crankcase plug is a tapered plug and if overtightened when reinstalling, could crack the case so be careful.

A sumping bike will run hot, although I don't know how you can tell on the later bikes as they run hot anyway. But a sumping bike will feel sluggish, like you are dragging an anchor. By checking, at least you can elminate that as a cause and focus on the other possibilities referenced in previous posts.

 

Is there gas in the tank??? Something seems way out of line for such a proven build, regardless if you like the HD 103 / 255 build. With a good dyno/tune you should be able to easily notice a heck of a pull difference. Will be interested to hear with what is up.

Like Yogi Berra said:

 

Wait a minute, you can't change cams without removeing the heads or changing the push rods. on stage 1 103" they use a download not a SERT.
I don't kown what is going on and it sounds like you don't either.

Try useing a calm head when you go back and get some info so maybe someone here can help ya outl but you need to know what they did. Good Luck

 

You do not need to remove heads when swapping out cams or rods. But you do however need to when going with the big bore kit because you are swapping out pistons and cylinders.

 

I am about 1/3 the way through the stage 2 103 kit with 255 cams. ready to change pistons tonight, and pull cam box off tomorrow. I will be leaving my original heads on which means I can leave the stock push rods for now. Heads are getting the hole for acr's drilled at dealer. I like the power commander pc5 but if I end up with problems like the posters then I may be leaning to sert , at least the dealer will be able to work on it without refusing to touch it if I have problems and have the pc-5. a good tune and dyno sheets I have seen should get power in 90's and torque in 90 range from dyno sheet sIve seen posted in here.