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'07 Idle Issues

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Old May 25, 2013 | 10:28 PM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Iclick. Thanks for the update. Last year I had the freeway stumble and it was the TPS at fault. I too believe that changing them every years is a good idea or keep one on hand.
The good news is that it seems they are forgiving when they fail. My first one didn't actually start causing major problems until about 18 months after the symptoms started and it took me that long to link it to the TPS. By that time it was indeed a problem, as the bike would hardly run and started throwing TPS trouble codes. I think from now on I'll just change it out early rather than letting it just get worse over time.
 
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Old May 25, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #312  
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When it happened to me I took a guess it was the TPS. Now I've changed out a total of six of them. Guess only a few of us have this issue.
 
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Old May 26, 2013 | 07:33 AM
  #313  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
When it happened to me I took a guess it was the TPS. Now I've changed out a total of six of them. Guess only a few of us have this issue.
I recall you saying that earlier and you may hold the world's record for TPS replacements. How long are they lasting on your bike (miles and/or months)? Like I said, the first one started showing symptoms at around 35k but I didn't link the TPS and install a new one until about 44k. Only 16k later I'm on my third, so it looks like I'm locked into a schedule of replacing them every two years or so. No big deal, I guess--as if that's all that goes wrong with this bike I'll be okay with that ritual.
 
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Old May 26, 2013 | 08:18 AM
  #314  
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They are going bad almost once a year. Now that I have a new 50mm TB I wonder if that will change.
 
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Old May 29, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by nvsteve
Not too long after the 07 bikes were released a letter went out to owners regarding a re-flash of the ecm. I believe it added fuel in some areas, maybe reduced some timing.
I'd guess that's what he was referring to.
By the time I received the letter I had already added a PC111 from Fuelmoto and had it tuned. Three dealers and a couple tuners suggested I not get the reflash. I think I may have even checked with Jamie.
i never got a letter
 
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Old May 29, 2013 | 09:19 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by kpb46
i never got a letter
No worries, waste of time
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by iclick
After starting this thread back in 2010 and watching it stay alive through the past three years I have yet another report to make. Last fall I had a revival of the high-idle issue I reported originally and it recurred several times until the weather turned cool when it stopped for several months. This spring it has returned and has become common lately, sometimes starting as a high idle followed by a low, stumbling idle that would nearly kill the engine. One symptom reported previously but not experienced with the latest issues was a rare and sporadic misfire at highway speeds.

I have been watching TPS voltage on my Power Vision display unit for some time and have noticed that at idle it has been jumping around rapidly between .15-.52v but smooths out and stabilizes as TP and TPS voltage increase. It should read around .50v at idle. Having seen these symptoms before I was sure the TPS was at fault so today I changed it again only 16k miles after the last in June 2011.

I took it for a test ride and noticed that TPS voltage at idle had stabilized between .51-.53v, a marked improvement over the old defective unit. I looked at it and noticed that at the 0% TP position (idle) that the center section that moves with the throttle shaft was looser than in other positions. I put an ohmmeter on it and noticed that if I moved the center section laterally--i.e., not linearly as it would move in normal operation--the ohmmeter would fluctuate, which it clearly should not, but if I moved the mechanism off the idle position it did not change.

My conclusion is that somehow the TPS mechanism is wearing at the idle position, probably due to engine shake. The '07 96" engine on the old frame produced more shake than in previous models and I'm wondering if this is the cause--excessive shake causing the TPS to wear prematurely. A friend with an '06 RG (stock 88" engine) has 47k and he has had no problems with the TPS, but his bike idles much smoother than mine. The '08 had the same frame and engine but had no TPS, so the '07 is the only year model with this combo (old frame, old engine-mount design, 96" engine, and TPS). I also wonder if maybe the throttle shaft may not be quite straight, causing the TPS mechanism to wear prematurely as it shakes at idle.

I think I'm going to have to resign myself to changing the TPS every two years or so, which I can handle. At $32 and taking only maybe 20 min. to install it just isn't a big deal. About 10 min. of that is to remove the AC hardware and another 10 min. to remove and re-install the inner bolt, which is difficult to access. For that I used a small Torx bit that normally fits inside a ź" socket, but for this job I slipped it inside a ź" ratcheting box-end wrench. I thought about going to Ace Hardware and buying an Allen bolt instead, which would be easier to install with a long ball-end Allen socket, but it just isn't that difficult with the stock Torx bolt.
iclick, a few questions on this issue please:

I have fought this problem for over 3 years now with only the low idle & stall problem. Cleaning the IAC has resolved the issue temporarily each time. After some 'spirited' riding in the Ozarks last week, I now have the high idle along with the low idle & stall. Cleaning did not resolve this time. Replaced the TPS & still have low idle & stall. I am now going to replace the IAC. Here are my questions/concerns:

I am planning the to do the tank lift method. Is it necessary to disconnect the throttle & cruise cables to free the IAC from the bracket? If so, is there enough room to do so?

I have the SE High Flow intake. Is it necessary or helpful to remove the backing plate?

Did you have any problems with the factory screws stripping or breaking off due to being too tight (or too much Loctite)?

I guess I'm getting paranoid thinking about all that could go wrong here...thanks for your input & help.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #318  
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Default 07 idle issues

ICLICK,

Changing the IAC is easy. Best way is to take out the two front bolts on the gas tank. I even loosened the back one, but u can get away with just the two front ones. I have a quick disconnect on my fuel gas tank crossover line. So lifted tank as I needed without disconnecting the fuel line crossover. The important thing to remember is to not power your on button or the IAC motor will activate & ruin your day. Just make sure the IAC motor is fully installed b4 you turn on anything. Good luck! I guess I have been lucky...Had low idle issues & replaced the IAC & solved my problems. Reckon the oil mist on my stage 1 screaming eagle AC makes it to the IAC & gums it up. So everytime i clean my K&N filter i clean the IAC with throttle body cleaner.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #319  
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today was my worst ride with both low idle stalling and high idle...been living with it for awhile but gonna start with TPS and go from there... I have a 103 with a PC111 50,000 miles plus.

sucks when ya stall on a busy road or coming off the hwy onto on ramp..
 
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #320  
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I had a similar issue once. It turned out to be a broken wire pin in the engine temp harness socket
 
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