I went thundermaxx ECM with auto tuner and they sent exactly what was needed. Easy install and perfect fit.

 

well i got the flhx back and so far so good. I notice a smooth snappy throttle response and the bike just takes off snaps your head back. Needless to say im tickled pink and vary happy with the outcome. The new bung ports are not that noticeable you really have to look for them. I have no problem with the cruise controll it works fine. I did have one more question if anyone here knows the answer. Can i use my ACC switch on the fairing to switch between learn and closed loop map?. My understanding is all that is needed to switch is a simple toggle switch and the ACC roocker switch is just that. Or is that just not the correct way to do this .Rite now that ACC switch does nothing and i wonder if the factory ran a wire from that switch to under the seat witch would be nice. Any help would be nice. Thanks and ride safe my friends

 

Do a search for threads from forum user 'iclick' He has an extensive write-up about using the ACC switch. You must use a relay between the switch and PC-V to toggle between Auto-tune and a preloaded map.

 

You can connect a simple on-off switch and toggle between learning mode (closed-loop) and the base map (open-loop). The latter works as if AT was not connected, working like a standalone PCV. The switch idea works fine, but I used it to toggle between a rich base map and AT, the latter set up for mileage and the former for additional cooling when needed. I did a write-up on this here several years ago. FWIW I found that running 13.5:1 in the cruise range didn't make the heads run much cooler than 14.6:1, so I only used the switch on rare occasions when CHT was really climbing, like in major traffic jams. On my bike the difference between these two modes was only about 7° FCHT running 55mph in summer weather, but gas mileage suffered more noticeably. It may work better when snarled in traffic, but I've never tested it in that environment.

I now have a Power Vision and have a rich tune stored on it, but I can't toggle like you guys can with the PCV. I must stop the engine and flash the tune, a 30-sec. operation. Since installing the PV I haven't used the rich tune even once, except once when I loaded it by mistake. I noticed it quickly because my gas mileage suffered considerably. Other than doing it this way I'm not sure why you'd want to turn off AT, that assuming the base map has been "accepted" (accept trims option) repeatedly to get it close to the tune established by AT.

The "hardware switch" (DynoJet's terminology) that you use for toggling a PCV must be free of any 12V current and must be only a continuity switch. The stock ACC switch on my bike is powered by the P&A fuse and I can disable any 12V from the switch by pulling that fuse. No other item is powered by that fuse on an '07, but later models use it for other things, so check your electrical diagrams before pulling the P&A fuse. This is the way it would be done on an '07:



If you don't pull the fuse you can simply cut or otherwise disable the OR wire from the 12V source. That way the switch will be removed from the 12V grid and your other accessories will continue to work.

An open switch (normally off) toggles open-loop while closed (normally on) it toggles closed-loop (AT or learning mode). I use my stock ACC switch for heated clothes, so I installed another one without any power connected. The LED in the switch will not work unless you rig a relay, which I did on mine. Here's the way I did it:



Depending on how you wire the relay you can rig the LED to come on for AT (pins 2 & 6 as in the diagram) or base-map mode (pins 4 & 6 instead), but since AT was normal for me I wanted the light to come on as a warning that it was not in its normal state. Normal was AT for me, so I had the LED coming on when in base-map mode.

With this relay you can use the other side of the relay for some other item to work with the switch, like maybe an oil-cooler fan.

 

Thanks for the enlightenment on the acc switch now that you mention it the light comes on when the switch is pushed so its a powerd switch Ice cream in the forehead what was i thinking. rather than doing the relay i may just add a switch and save the acc for something else.Thanks again if i had hooked to that switch i would have cooked my auto tune

 

Sounds like you're happy with the results but wouldn't it have been much easier and cheaper in the long run to buy the new Power Vision?

 

Not if he plans on future mods and doesnt want t pay for dyno tunes. The feul moto maps are very close but It still is a map made for another bike, the auto tune fine tunes it for your bike.

 

The switch wires are connected to the PCV and any wiring miscues likely wouldn't affect the AT module, but I definitely wouldn't try using the stock ACC switch without disconnecting the 12V circuit.

As for adding another ACC switch, that would be my choice even if I didn't already have some use for the original like I do now. Leaving the stock ACC switch and harnesses unmolested is better than hacking on the wiring, IMO, and adding another switch is fairly easy even though you'll have to run the two wires under the tank. My bike had three extra switch slots originally but only one was available after I added a cruise control and a jury-rigged garage-door opener. Now my panel is full.