Looking for some help troubleshooting no start
#1
Looking for some help troubleshooting no start
Hey everyone. Wondering if i could get some help here. Bike seemed to be running fine the past few days with no noticeable problems. This one just kind of popped up out of nowhere.
Went to go for a ride today and the bike ran for a few seconds then died on me while backing out of the garage. Was pretty close to being empty on gas, so filled up one of the garage gas cans and put two gallons of fuel in the tank just to make sure i had enough gas and didn't have a silly problem like an empty tank.
Went to try and start it and noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming (wasn't making the whining sound when turning the ignition switch to run). Pulled the main fuse, checked everything electrical under the seat and disconnected the fuel line at the bottom of the tank on the left side and it looked like there was fuel in the line.
Did some searches and ended up trying to pull the diag codes from the ECM to see if that could help me. When I go into the "P" section to check the ECM codes, i get no rSP. I get nonE when navigating to the "S" TSM/TSSM section, "nonE" in the "SP" speedometer section, "no rSP" in the tachomoter section and "nonE" in the last letter on the menu, which is a b (not sure what this one represents yet).
The first thing that popped up in searches was folks entering diagnostic mode with the off/run switch in "off" position. Mine is definitely in the "run" position. Just to make sure i didn't have a switch or wiring harness problem, i pulled the headlight and checked all the connections for the TGS and handlebar switches. Still same symptoms. No fuel pump prime and engine cranks, but won't start.
Have seen some confusion about whether "no rSP" means no rear spark or no response. I am leaning more toward the no response the more i read what little information i can find. I get "no rSP" when i navigate to the "T" section for the tachomoter and i don't have one, so this further makes me think this means no response rather than no rear spark.
I then decided to check the relays. I can't find my multimeter and am wondering if i let a friend or neighbor borrow it and can't remember. Anyway, i did a simple test and swapped the system relay and the start relay and still get the same thing. I guess i will have to go get another multimeter, but looked in the service manual and can't find any useful troubleshooting information to help me systematically test.
Anyone have any ideas to get my down the right path? The bike is a 2013 RKC that I bought in december, so it will be covered under warranty, but getting it to the dealer is going to be a challenge because of how far away we live. Was wondering if I may be able to just pull the ECM and take to them and have them bench test it or something. Not sure if this has any validity, but i will call them tomorrow morning just to see.
Thanks,
Scott
Went to go for a ride today and the bike ran for a few seconds then died on me while backing out of the garage. Was pretty close to being empty on gas, so filled up one of the garage gas cans and put two gallons of fuel in the tank just to make sure i had enough gas and didn't have a silly problem like an empty tank.
Went to try and start it and noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming (wasn't making the whining sound when turning the ignition switch to run). Pulled the main fuse, checked everything electrical under the seat and disconnected the fuel line at the bottom of the tank on the left side and it looked like there was fuel in the line.
Did some searches and ended up trying to pull the diag codes from the ECM to see if that could help me. When I go into the "P" section to check the ECM codes, i get no rSP. I get nonE when navigating to the "S" TSM/TSSM section, "nonE" in the "SP" speedometer section, "no rSP" in the tachomoter section and "nonE" in the last letter on the menu, which is a b (not sure what this one represents yet).
The first thing that popped up in searches was folks entering diagnostic mode with the off/run switch in "off" position. Mine is definitely in the "run" position. Just to make sure i didn't have a switch or wiring harness problem, i pulled the headlight and checked all the connections for the TGS and handlebar switches. Still same symptoms. No fuel pump prime and engine cranks, but won't start.
Have seen some confusion about whether "no rSP" means no rear spark or no response. I am leaning more toward the no response the more i read what little information i can find. I get "no rSP" when i navigate to the "T" section for the tachomoter and i don't have one, so this further makes me think this means no response rather than no rear spark.
I then decided to check the relays. I can't find my multimeter and am wondering if i let a friend or neighbor borrow it and can't remember. Anyway, i did a simple test and swapped the system relay and the start relay and still get the same thing. I guess i will have to go get another multimeter, but looked in the service manual and can't find any useful troubleshooting information to help me systematically test.
Anyone have any ideas to get my down the right path? The bike is a 2013 RKC that I bought in december, so it will be covered under warranty, but getting it to the dealer is going to be a challenge because of how far away we live. Was wondering if I may be able to just pull the ECM and take to them and have them bench test it or something. Not sure if this has any validity, but i will call them tomorrow morning just to see.
Thanks,
Scott
#3
Wow! I just had this issue with my 07 SG today too. Will try to keep this short. Went to warm the bike up to take the wifey for a ride. Turned the "key" to ignition, noticed my fuel gauge didn't move. Flipped the switch to run, and, tried to start....nothing. Just turned over. Started checking the fuses on the left side, they were all good. Did my research on this site, check codes, and, had a b1005. As I was writing this stuff down, my niece came over to pick up my old grille. Helped her load it up. Headed back to the garage, by this time wife said dinner will be done in 15. Started pulling the ride side to check the fuses on that side. Had to disconnect the computer plug to get the other fuses all the way out. Those fuses were all good too. Went to eat dinner. Came back out, was like "F it, lets try this again." Turned the "key" to ignition, and, the fuel gauge started moving...hmmmm. Flipped the switch to run, hit start, and, the thing fired up...went on a test ride, and, all is well. No idea why disconnecting the computer would have helped, but, it did me
#4
#7
I was told on another thread that the fob battery being almost dead woulnd't let the motor turn over at all. I have saw this twice. Motor turns over fine, but no fire until the fob is moved closer or a new battery is installed in the fob.
I know, I know, it is impossible for the motor to turn over if ther is not an active fob near it, except the the two times I saw it happen.
It will cost you a buck or two to try the new battery or over ride the security, even though that couldn't possibly help, except in two cases I know of.
Dennis
I know, I know, it is impossible for the motor to turn over if ther is not an active fob near it, except the the two times I saw it happen.
It will cost you a buck or two to try the new battery or over ride the security, even though that couldn't possibly help, except in two cases I know of.
Dennis
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#8
Just finished fixing a similar problem myself, but on a much older 99 EGC(EFI).
Was riding yesterday, and stopped at the store for a drink, and took a 10 minute break. I get back on the bike and turn it on and the fuel pump does not work. This lead to 15 minutes of cursing, flipping switches and more cursing. Then out of the blue it worked. This wasn't the first time it happened, but I could never figure out what the issue was in the past. So I start to ride home, and over the next hour of riding the bike died on me a dozen times, getting worse as time went on. Somehow I accidentally realized that if I hold the kill switch in (not on the run side, just press it in hard right in the center), the bike would stay on. If I didn't do that, the fuel pump wouldn't even prime.
So I went and picked up a replacement switch ($50), cut the old one out, and put the new one in and so far it seems to have fixed the problem, especially since when I rolled into my garage yesterday the bike would shut off without me holding the switch in. I haven't ridden it yet except around the block, but I expect that this fixed the problem.
My bike was throwing two engine codes: 33 - starter relay and 35 - tach
I have not replaced the relay, but the kill switch hooks up to it, so that might have tricked the computer into thinking that the relay was bad. In any case I have a fresh relay on the bike for now. I'm not sure how the tach code fits in, it has been another intermittent problem that seemingly comes and goes at random
Also, Airborne!
Was riding yesterday, and stopped at the store for a drink, and took a 10 minute break. I get back on the bike and turn it on and the fuel pump does not work. This lead to 15 minutes of cursing, flipping switches and more cursing. Then out of the blue it worked. This wasn't the first time it happened, but I could never figure out what the issue was in the past. So I start to ride home, and over the next hour of riding the bike died on me a dozen times, getting worse as time went on. Somehow I accidentally realized that if I hold the kill switch in (not on the run side, just press it in hard right in the center), the bike would stay on. If I didn't do that, the fuel pump wouldn't even prime.
So I went and picked up a replacement switch ($50), cut the old one out, and put the new one in and so far it seems to have fixed the problem, especially since when I rolled into my garage yesterday the bike would shut off without me holding the switch in. I haven't ridden it yet except around the block, but I expect that this fixed the problem.
My bike was throwing two engine codes: 33 - starter relay and 35 - tach
I have not replaced the relay, but the kill switch hooks up to it, so that might have tricked the computer into thinking that the relay was bad. In any case I have a fresh relay on the bike for now. I'm not sure how the tach code fits in, it has been another intermittent problem that seemingly comes and goes at random
Also, Airborne!
#9
Check to see if the system relay has power to the relay, (pin 86?) in run. No power means no power from ECM. No power from ECM means none to ECM or bad connection. The ECM will run pump for a few seconds, then stop until there is a signal from crank position sensor. Newer models do have some fretting corrosion problems at ecm plug, but I think this is primarily associated with throttle by wire. This is my guess...
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Master Dee
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
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02-20-2019 01:11 PM