Drive belt question
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Milford, Delaware
Drive belt question
I just did a 35,000 mile maintenance on my 2010 ultra classic for the first time (had dealer to previous services). I brought it to an independent mechanic just to give it a good look over. He adjusted my drive belt as he said it needed it. He told me "you only have two adjustments left and then you'll have to replace the drive belt." He also said the belt look great. Searched around this form and googled and I can't find anything about what he's talking about. Everything I've read says the belt could last up to hundred thousand miles. Can anyone shed light on what he's saying.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 191
From: Boise, Idaho
I just adjusted my belt at 20,000 miles. I don't know what your mechanic is talking about. I believe the belt can be adjusted as many times as would be necessary. In my limited experience I have adjusted my belt twice. The first time was when I replaced tires at 12,500 miles and again at 20,000 miles.
I'm not sure of the longevity of the belt but with proper care I wouldn't think 100k for miles would be out of the question.
I'm not sure of the longevity of the belt but with proper care I wouldn't think 100k for miles would be out of the question.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
he's giving you a head's up i suppose.
the belt replacement is only a big deal in that the primary cases and swingarm have to come off, so the labor is high.
that is the time to replace swingarm bushings, service the clutch, look at the primary chain and comp sprocket.
100000 is possible but some of us have different experiences
on my '95 FLHTC I replaced the belt when my swingarm bushes needed replaced at about 70K- the belt was fine, but with all that off I'd have been nuts not to replace a $100 part
on my 88 FXRP the belt lasted to about 50K- the first 40 K were in CHP service so I'm guessing they hammered it. I swapped out pulleys too.
on that bike I also did the swingarm bushes while it was off
how the bike is used, how it is maintained all makes a big diff how long the belt lasts
so you can plan for sometime down the road sinking close to a grand into it
mike
the belt replacement is only a big deal in that the primary cases and swingarm have to come off, so the labor is high.
that is the time to replace swingarm bushings, service the clutch, look at the primary chain and comp sprocket.
100000 is possible but some of us have different experiences
on my '95 FLHTC I replaced the belt when my swingarm bushes needed replaced at about 70K- the belt was fine, but with all that off I'd have been nuts not to replace a $100 part
on my 88 FXRP the belt lasted to about 50K- the first 40 K were in CHP service so I'm guessing they hammered it. I swapped out pulleys too.
on that bike I also did the swingarm bushes while it was off
how the bike is used, how it is maintained all makes a big diff how long the belt lasts
so you can plan for sometime down the road sinking close to a grand into it
mike
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,850
Likes: 220
From: Sacramento, CA.
The axle slot through the swing arm is running out of room to move axle back any farther.
I don't know how much belts stretch. But I can tell you chains stretch & you run out of adjustment. That's the only thing I can think of. If you don't have a HD Svc Manual I would get one. Get this HD tool & you'll be good to go, no more guessing.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...on-tester-tool
I don't know how much belts stretch. But I can tell you chains stretch & you run out of adjustment. That's the only thing I can think of. If you don't have a HD Svc Manual I would get one. Get this HD tool & you'll be good to go, no more guessing.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...on-tester-tool
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,191
Likes: 2,420
From: USA
My guess as well, that the mechanic is giving you a heads up that you are near the end of tension adjustment. A quick glance at the tensioner cams will show if this guess of mine is right or not.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
You will continue to have adjustment until you max-out the deflection of the cam lobes welded to the main axle. These cams maintain the tension. For a mechanic to say "you have two adjustments left" is a poor choice of terminology since there are no graduations or markings on the cam lobes, thus no reference from where you were to where the maximum deflection of the cams might be.. Besides, with the proper tools, you can easily be performing this routine maintenance yourself.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
A toothed drive belt and a chain are linear/continuous gears comparable to a "rack & pinion" set.
The profile of the belt or chain is manufactured to match the circular pitch of both engine and rear wheel sprockets. The number of teeth of the belt or rollers of the chain provide a functional assembly of fixed distance between both sprockets. All this is fixed by design and well in place when the bike is new.
As soon as slack occurs and no wear is visible on the sprockets, the distance between both sprockets has reduced. This can incriminate the engine mounts, the swing arm bushings or the eccentric setting of the rear wheel.
As a rule, any setting reaching maximum position calls for investigation of it's counterpart(s).
As soon as asymmetric wear (one side) is visible on all teeth of a sprocket it's time to change both sprockets and chain/belt.
The profile of the belt or chain is manufactured to match the circular pitch of both engine and rear wheel sprockets. The number of teeth of the belt or rollers of the chain provide a functional assembly of fixed distance between both sprockets. All this is fixed by design and well in place when the bike is new.
As soon as slack occurs and no wear is visible on the sprockets, the distance between both sprockets has reduced. This can incriminate the engine mounts, the swing arm bushings or the eccentric setting of the rear wheel.
As a rule, any setting reaching maximum position calls for investigation of it's counterpart(s).
As soon as asymmetric wear (one side) is visible on all teeth of a sprocket it's time to change both sprockets and chain/belt.
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