Bike no start...................
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 49
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From: Spencer, MA
Bike no start...................
ok here's the facts, 2005 FLHTPI, existing battery was 1 year old always on a tender when stored indoors. Last week, late night ride home I noticed the volt gauge bouncing from 14.2 down to 12 then back up, stay there for a bit then drop and return. I had my heated grips on, driving lights, radio, and the phone was being charged. I shut off the grips, seemed to help. Bike gets put away for a week, on the charger. This past Sunday I took it out in the morning, was doing the same, no heated grips on this time. Last night I went out and when I proceeded to go home, bike wouldn't start.....Made the "click,click,click" noise, then nothing.
Ok I figure its a battery, maybe I had a bad batch of one that only lasted a year. Picked up a HD battery from the local dealer, install and Click, Click, Click,,,,then nothing. I can hear the bike "energize" (for lack of a better term), radio works, lights fine....but no start
What I haven't done is test the old battery for how much juice it had (yes I probably should've....hindsight thing right?)
What should I do, I'm on my couch for the night, pounding headache and the humidity tonight is thru the roof......I'll wait for any answers
Thnx folks
Ok I figure its a battery, maybe I had a bad batch of one that only lasted a year. Picked up a HD battery from the local dealer, install and Click, Click, Click,,,,then nothing. I can hear the bike "energize" (for lack of a better term), radio works, lights fine....but no start
What I haven't done is test the old battery for how much juice it had (yes I probably should've....hindsight thing right?)
What should I do, I'm on my couch for the night, pounding headache and the humidity tonight is thru the roof......I'll wait for any answers
Thnx folks
Last edited by Houlie; Jun 17, 2014 at 05:57 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
I would start by checking the ground to the frame connection for corrosion and loose bolt, then check the same on the battery lead to the starter as well, they need to be checked anyway and it costs nothing.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
a loud click click is the solenoid energizing, this is the canister attached the the starter where the wires go in...the solenoid is a big switch.
inside is a contact disk which can get fouled by carbon or damaged by arcing.
fixing a HD solenoid is easy as a chevy if that is which the problem is.
a softer click from the side cover is the starter relay, if that is clicking but the solenoid isn't replace the starter relay- $10 at any auto parts store, take the old one in
your first step is to check the battery cables- if they are rotted internally:
then they won't conduct electricity and can even cause further damage.
take the battery out, charge it with a charger ( not a tender) and have it tested at autozone
( if you need new, many of us buy the big krank from about $100)
if you want to rule out the handlebar switch, the starter relay and the associated wiring; pull the green wire off of the solenoid.
get a jumper wire which has a terminal on it which'll fit he solenoid terminal...and touch the other end to the battery +, the solenoid switch should close and the starter will run...make sure you are in neutral!
mike
inside is a contact disk which can get fouled by carbon or damaged by arcing.
fixing a HD solenoid is easy as a chevy if that is which the problem is.
a softer click from the side cover is the starter relay, if that is clicking but the solenoid isn't replace the starter relay- $10 at any auto parts store, take the old one in
your first step is to check the battery cables- if they are rotted internally:
then they won't conduct electricity and can even cause further damage.
take the battery out, charge it with a charger ( not a tender) and have it tested at autozone
( if you need new, many of us buy the big krank from about $100)
if you want to rule out the handlebar switch, the starter relay and the associated wiring; pull the green wire off of the solenoid.
get a jumper wire which has a terminal on it which'll fit he solenoid terminal...and touch the other end to the battery +, the solenoid switch should close and the starter will run...make sure you are in neutral!
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 17, 2014 at 06:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Spencer, MA
Yes...I did get a new one.....same result
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Spencer, MA
a loud click click is the solenoid energizing, this is the canister attached the the starter where the wires go in...the solenoid is a big switch.
inside is a contact disk which can get fouled by carbon or damaged by arcing.
fixing a HD solenoid is easy as a chevy if that is which the problem is.
a softer click from the side cover is the starter relay, if that is clicking but the solenoid isn't replace the starter relay- $10 at any auto parts store, take the old one in
your first step is to check the battery cables- if they are rotted internally:
then they won't conduct electricity and can even cause further damage.
take the battery out, charge it with a charger ( not a tender) and have it tested at autozone
( if you need new, many of us buy the big krank from about $100)
if you want to rule out the handlebar switch, the starter relay and the associated wiring; pull the green wire off of the solenoid.
get a jumper wire which has a terminal on it which'll fit he solenoid terminal...and touch the other end to the battery +, the solenoid switch should close and the starter will run...make sure you are in neutral!
mike
inside is a contact disk which can get fouled by carbon or damaged by arcing.
fixing a HD solenoid is easy as a chevy if that is which the problem is.
a softer click from the side cover is the starter relay, if that is clicking but the solenoid isn't replace the starter relay- $10 at any auto parts store, take the old one in
your first step is to check the battery cables- if they are rotted internally:
then they won't conduct electricity and can even cause further damage.
take the battery out, charge it with a charger ( not a tender) and have it tested at autozone
( if you need new, many of us buy the big krank from about $100)
if you want to rule out the handlebar switch, the starter relay and the associated wiring; pull the green wire off of the solenoid.
get a jumper wire which has a terminal on it which'll fit he solenoid terminal...and touch the other end to the battery +, the solenoid switch should close and the starter will run...make sure you are in neutral!
mike
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