That is correct, and the thing thats missing is compression. After all the issues I was having with this dealer I didn't want to mess with having them do any more than needed. All the parts in my cam chest were grenaded by a bad lifter and needed to be changed so I opted for Tman and S&S parts instead of stock.
I'm still at stock compression right now and the 662-2 cams like 10.8, 11.0.
One of the mechanics at this dealer has a 120R with almost the same set up running 12.0 compression and his is putting down over 140 Tq, but his bottom end is done.

I plan to have the bottom end done by Tman this winter and run with what I have for the summer. After the bottom end have Tman do my heads and maybe use his 124 upgrade kit?

Its still a work in progress.

 

*** HD in Asheboro, great staff out front but the service dept is over whelmed and take forever! 4 weeks to get my cam chest back together and a dyno is a long time for me.

They do have a couple of highly recommended dyno guys but they work almost everyday on multiple bikes, I'm not sure they do all they can?

 

You could get Tman to tune if you go with his bottom end, don't know how far away you are from him.

 

That makes sense.

 

From me Tman is 2 1/2 hrs away, I drove there myself to pick up the cams, pushrods, S&S rollor rockers and S&S lifters. The big man came out to talk to me himself, pretty great guy!

When its gets closer I'll go back and get the run down on what kind of a package he can put together if I have him do it all at once. He knocked a good chunk off from me buying the other four parts all at once.

Or my wife might murder me after she finds out how much I spend on my bikes engine that's still just meant for touring?

 

BTDT. Bought a CVO because "it's already got everything on it". Then she found my stash of receipts.

 

HD rollin is correct. A 120r has like NO compression. WIth the stock 266s, it has 175 ccp. The plus is that can run regular all day long. Not a bad trade off for those numbers. Static is around 10.3:1, and not the advertized 10.5.

My 120r, 100% stock, runs about 118/126. SAE, etc. Repeated on MY dyno and Docs dyno.

I looked at the 662-2s, but I am not going that way. Instead, I may look at the GMR 120r cam or have Torque Inc make a cam specific for my 120r.

Two things to notice with a true big block like a 117 and up... look at that curve. NO peakiness whatsoever and the hp carries right on out. Sure, the numbers are about the same for a HOT 107... but the curves are totally different. Nothing beats cubic inches when the day is done. a 120r will effortlessly do 140 mph, or more. Or climb those 6% hills in KY or out west with the cruise on, at 90mph.... or 70. Those pesky 107s will pull me quite a bit... at first, but I can always seem to reel them in effortlessly.

Roll, I am in your boat. ALL these other guys seem to get 135/135, etc. Makes me wonder. GMR also sells some pistons to up the compression and they work well, but I am still thinking the PROPER cam can do the same.

STD was shown, or given to the OP, because look at the run conditions... that 1.06 on the end would KILL the sheet. SAE at 1.06 is not a good run at all. If you ditched a dealer tune for an independent tuner that knows his ****, and went on a good day for runs, the SAE would be right there with that STD sheet you have now. Plus, it should show a little better.

I've been thinking a lot. I have 5.3 injectors, for rideability. Maybe 6.2s would help. Also, I have that one off D&D Boss pipe for 2009. Only year they made that pipe. I am thinking hard about an X wedge pipe and some crusher mellows for a little boost, too. Lonewolf gets great numbers with that exhaust.

Next year, I will replacing the springs with some AV&V beehives, some S&S premiums, new pipe, and a different camset. Right now, with ZERO oil consumption, I wish to NOT pull the heads. I have a NUB tool to swap springs, when the time comes.

My 120r is a 2012. Came with the camplate and new new oil pump, and no compensator. At cruise... it has like 50+ lbs of oil pressure. THAT pump is a good upgrade if you have a 2011 engine. I am running the Baker attitude chain adjuster and the BETA version of the Compensaver. The compensaver works well, BTW.

If I had a do over, I may have went with the low power S&S 124. But I have NOT needed any warranty style work. I swapped my lifters after the first 1000 miles with woods. The woods have to go, and may go THIS year. S&S premiums are way better in my humble opinion. I ride medium hard. NO wheelies, etc. But on the days I buy a new rear tire? HEHEHEHEH>>>

 

Damn!!