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The first two are commonly used.
The pt100 compensates the distance to the sensor and uses 3 or 4 wires; the ntc is used in less accurate conditions.
The type K costs less than $50 with it's readout/microprocessor; the PT100 uses a controller and ramps rather slowly.
I dipped the type-K sensor in the engine oil to measure temperature and also pressed it against the engine with a rag. At 95% emissivity set on the IR thermometer (Fluke 62Max) I have the same reading as with the other sensor.
I use a good synthetic oil and I wouldn't start getting concerned until it hit 300°F in the pan with no relief in sight, then I would probably pull off and shut it down just as a precaution. These motors can take a thermal beating, as long as you keep it properly lubed then it's not worth losing any sleep over. JMO
The first two are commonly used.
The pt100 compensates the distance to the sensor and uses 3 or 4 wires; the ntc is used in less accurate conditions.
The type K costs less than $50 with it's readout/microprocessor; the PT100 uses a controller and ramps rather slowly.
I dipped the type-K sensor in the engine oil to measure temperature and also pressed it against the engine with a rag. At 95% emissivity set on the IR thermometer (Fluke 62Max) I have the same reading as with the other sensor.
I use a good synthetic oil and I wouldn't start getting concerned until it hit 300°F in the pan with no relief in sight, then I would probably pull off and shut it down just as a precaution. These motors can take a thermal beating, as long as you keep it properly lubed then it's not worth losing any sleep over. JMO
A common sense answer..from a common sense kind of guy...I like it.
Ever since I put the Xied's on my 2009 Ultra, my bike runs at about 190-210 while on highways and 200-225 in city. That's in Texas, 90-100 degree temps. Xieds were the best things I ever bought for my bike.
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