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Sears red jack modification

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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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  #191  
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Default stage II
Originally Posted by cbz1200n
... Welding the bar in the middle would help eliminate it, but in my opinion it is not necessary and there goes the simple mod.
CB
The offset tubular spreader simply prevents sag on the lift-pads, reducing the 6-1/2" bolts' job to a simple shear load (which grade 8's handle w/ a huge safety factor).

A $20 dollar welding fee shouldn't keep anyone from benefiting from stage II. And a $100 craigslist stick-welder can do this kind of work, for the bold.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Modded my jack following this advice as well, and it works fine. I did have a similar problem with the jiffy stand and also clearing the clutch line. A small piece of wood fixed this though. After strapping it down I was very surprised and pleased with how stable it was.
 
Attached Thumbnails Sears red jack modification-sears_lift_0001.jpg  
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dmayer
Modded my jack following this advice as well, and it works fine. I did have a similar problem with the jiffy stand and also clearing the clutch line. A small piece of wood fixed this though. After strapping it down I was very surprised and pleased with how stable it was.
You should leave the jiffy down and it makes it easier to lift if you just rest the jiffy on a small piece of 2x4 before lifting, levels the frame rails. If you roll the jack under the bike so the front tie down loop just touches the jiffy, this should center the jack perfectly and miss the jiffy rubber stop as well, it does on my HF jack.
I pulled the the black plastic off the H-D Dyna lift adapters and use the orange rubber portion on the front which gives clearance for the clutch cable and they are fixed to the frame which is easier than using wood. You can probably find a used set pretty cheap.
I find mine rock solid stable and only use a tie down as a better safe than sorry measure.
CB
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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post #99 by macnab sf shows the same jack that I have. The wheels are narrower than the sears jack also the operation of the jack requires the handle to move, lift and lower. SC longhairs mod worked okay. But it was more of a 2 man operation. So heres what me and a welder buddy of mine did. Spring loaded motorcycle brake peddle to lift. spring loaded motorcycle shift lever to lower. Extended rail in front because of clearance issues with right jack wheel and motorcycle kickstand. Modified rear rail 1/2 " taller and 1'' shorter to clear muffler mounting hardware. Now the only thing the jack handle is used for is dragging aroung the garage.
 
Attached Thumbnails Sears red jack modification-lift2.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_0201.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_0202.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_0203.jpg   Sears red jack modification-img_0204.jpg  

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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It's great to see you guys working forward on a simple idea. Congratulations.

I'm really glad this has been a useful thread to so many members.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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I love this mod.....Hated those stupid lift adapters. When I do my front end this winter I will do the mod to my Sears Jack first and then I will enjoy using my jack even more....
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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Default custom lift competition
Originally Posted by fskitch
...Spring loaded motorcycle brake peddle to lift. spring loaded motorcycle shift lever to lower...
WAY f'n cool! Who can beat this?

A truly customized motorcycle...LIFT! Maybe you started something (well, and SC ).
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Not a bad idea but... the stock bolts are 2.5"-3". The mod bolts are 6". Second, I'm not sure those hitch-pin style you're referring to would have the load psi for safe operation.
You're saying that they are good for towing a 5,000 plus pound trailer, but can't hold up a 700 pound Harley? I think I'd go with the hitch pins over the bolts, myself.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gdt3
You're saying that they are good for towing a 5,000 plus pound trailer, but can't hold up a 700 pound Harley? I think I'd go with the hitch pins over the bolts, myself.
Aren't hitchpins expensive (like several times as much) when compared to a grade 8 bolt? Do you really need an ~5000# load rating? lol Well, maybe if you're lifting a bagger. lmao
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
WAY f'n cool! Who can beat this?

A truly customized motorcycle...LIFT! Maybe you started something (well, and SC ).
If it weren't for SC's post I never would have started fooling with mine. The foot peddle operation comes stock on the sears jack, at least for lifting as you can see in his video. The lowering of my jack had to be modified. It is real spooky trying to lower it with the old jack handle. The shifter is mounted on a splined shaft so presetting for slow or faster lowering is accomplished. (I prefer REAL slow). If I had a jack like SC's his mod is all I would have needed, although I kinda think using the old motorcycle parts make mine kinda cool. Maybe Ill paint it orange and black.
Pretty slick that the best motorcycle colors in the world are the same as the best baseball team in the world!
 
Attached Thumbnails Sears red jack modification-img_0199.jpg  
Last edited by fskitch; Nov 6, 2010 at 11:26 AM.
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