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Sears red jack modification

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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Welcome aboard.

My concern for the bolts carrying much more weight is the reason I upgraded them to 1/2".

This may ease your mind:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html
Thanks for the extra effort in putting the link to bolt strength.here.

The jack plates are held on with four bolts and if a bike weighs 800 pounds, it looks like even a 5/16" bolt would be strong enough because the weight of the bike is distributed over the 4 bolts. Do you see it that way too?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #202  
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I finally got around to doing the mod last weekend on my Sears jack, and went with Grade 8 6" bolts with nylock locking nuts. I also used some PVC schedule 120 tubing cut in 1/2" sections as spacers. Everything bolted up nicely and can't wait to give it a try during winter maintenance and mods. Thanks again, Vic, great innovation.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #203  
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for some reason, this didnt work for me!
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by Hickey
for some reason, this didnt work for me!
In what way did it not work?
CB
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:14 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by Streetbobster
In what way did it not work?
CB
well, turns out I actually dont have a craftsman lift. sounds dumb that I didnt realize that, but up in canada, most of the craftsman stuff is sold under a different name at canadian tire (where I bought my jack) when I added the pads to the outside, it was still far too narrow. I moved them even further along the 6 inch bolt which made them long enough, still didnt work because the inside lift bars (the ones that lift the pads) were coming into to contact with the oil pan/guard.

so I added 2 hunks of wood cut to the size of the pads and 1 inch high so that the lifter bar wouldn't touch. It worked. It didnt go as smooth as the longhair's lift, but I eventually got it after a couple hours.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 09:45 PM
  #206  
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Thanks for the excellent idea and guidance SC. I finally did the modification to my jack, which is a Torin, Black Jack jack that is similar in design to yours - with some minor differences. It has 2 round cross braces, which I had to cut and it had 1/2" spacers inside the rails. They came in handy because I needed to use them to space the rails further outside the lifting arms.
I caution readers to measure the rails and spacers (if needed) and lifting arms to determine what length bolts they will need. I just went by one of the posts that said 6" and I had to return them for 5". My original bolts were 12mm and they are really hard to get, so I just went with 1/2" and the holes were fine with them. I was prepared to do some drilling, but did not need to. Although my bolts are grade 8 I wouldn't care if they were hardware store grade, because the shear force on each bolt is 1/4 the weight of my 2001 Wide Glide.612 lbs dry. So let's say an even 640 lbs. That makes a load of 160 lbs on each bolt. That is not bending moment, that is shear force. Certainly not any concern at all.
The jack works awesome. I can now jack my bike up straight from sitting on the jiffy stand. Before I had to screw around with a 2x4 on the front and have someone hold it vertical until I got the jack holding it up.
Also, I can easily put it back to the original configuration for my son's Yamaha Warrior as it fit it perfectly in original form.
Thanks again SC-Longhair. My life is now a better place because of you. :-)
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:35 PM
  #207  
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Thanks Vic! Excellent post, & saved a bunch of us $$ & headaches. If you only knew how may times I looked at those darn HD plastic pieces-o-crap after several frustrating trys -

I like you idea of using them for a marshmellow roast! Mine are going on craigs list - cheap!
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 06:53 AM
  #208  
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I think the only difference in the mods between the Sears Red and the Harbor Freight Yellow (which I bought) is on the Sears you have to cut the cross brace off if I remember correctly. There is no brace on the H.F. one. The H.F. one usually sells for around $80 (the steel one, not the aluminum one). I did the similar mod on H.F. and have been very pleased using it. Very Sturdy etc, I use 1/2" plywood pads just to give the clutch cable extra clearance.
One day when I win the lottery I want one of the drive on's that go up to 30 in's.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #209  
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Great mod, I'll get started on mine now. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by Hickey
well, turns out I actually dont have a craftsman lift. sounds dumb that I didnt realize that, but up in canada, most of the craftsman stuff is sold under a different name at canadian tire (where I bought my jack) when I added the pads to the outside, it was still far too narrow. I moved them even further along the 6 inch bolt which made them long enough, still didnt work because the inside lift bars (the ones that lift the pads) were coming into to contact with the oil pan/guard.

so I added 2 hunks of wood cut to the size of the pads and 1 inch high so that the lifter bar wouldn't touch. It worked. It didnt go as smooth as the longhair's lift, but I eventually got it after a couple hours.
This one?

I don't think you should be having a problem with modding this jack. Are you lifting from the rt side?

Looks to be pretty close to the Sears jack?
 
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