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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 09:24 AM
  #91  
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From what I read on Amazon, the 2763-20 has 700 ft-lbs and the 2763-22 has the 1100 ft-lbs.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 09:24 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Suede Blue Man
Would this one be strong enough?

# 2763-20

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...3-20/204410434
That one should do it. If you want to sell it after let me know. Hey suede does your manual show a torque spec on that nut or torque and turn? Mine shows 35 ft lbs + 35-45* more. I ended up hitting it with the impact again to get it to spec because I felt like I was going to rip the tranny out of the bike hanging on a jack handle on the end of my breaker bar

Originally Posted by HD Pilot
From what I read on Amazon, the 2763-20 has 700 ft-lbs and the 2763-22 has the 1100 ft-lbs.
It's got 1100 ft lbs in reverse 700 lbs going clockwise
 

Last edited by monster715; Feb 13, 2016 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 10:43 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by mattVA
Won't work you'd need a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter which would break trying to remove that nut.
Works fine if you don't use those inferior 1/2" drive 'specialty' sockets.
While you're at the pawn shop, get a 3/4 drive socket. Cut it, weld in a piece of pipe for an extension. Then you do't need to rattle the snot out of shlt with an impact driver, or waste the money.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 11:20 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
Works fine if you don't use those inferior 1/2" drive 'specialty' sockets.
While you're at the pawn shop, get a 3/4 drive socket. Cut it, weld in a piece of pipe for an extension. Then you do't need to rattle the snot out of shlt with an impact driver, or waste the money.
You should make about 20 of those and start selling to all of us non-welders.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
Works fine if you don't use those inferior 1/2" drive 'specialty' sockets.
While you're at the pawn shop, get a 3/4 drive socket. Cut it, weld in a piece of pipe for an extension. Then you do't need to rattle the snot out of shlt with an impact driver, or waste the money.
That's funny I have an 1-7/8" socket cut, ready do make one for the 5 speed transmissions. 2" boom lacing works great, strong as hell and lightweight. Need to put this on the list of things to do

 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 12:26 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by fxdlx
Works fine if you don't use those inferior 1/2" drive 'specialty' sockets.
While you're at the pawn shop, get a 3/4 drive socket. Cut it, weld in a piece of pipe for an extension. Then you do't need to rattle the snot out of shlt with an impact driver, or waste the money.
Hmm, maybe that's the way to go, I'll go swing by a pawn shop today and see if they have one and get that welded up like that, thanks for posting
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 12:29 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by monster715
That one should do it. If you want to sell it after let me know. Hey suede does your manual show a torque spec on that nut or torque and turn? Mine shows 35 ft lbs + 35-45* more. I ended up hitting it with the impact again to get it to spec because I felt like I was going to rip the tranny out of the bike hanging on a jack handle on the end of my breaker bar

It's got 1100 ft lbs in reverse 700 lbs going clockwise
My manual states- torque to 100ft lbs, back the nut off one full turn, re-torque to 35 lbs, then reef on another 35-45*.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 03:58 PM
  #98  
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Alrighty then, my turn of joining Alan's and Robby's challenges of adversity this weekend:

This is just an update on the saga of SBM's winter blues:

So today I installed the Moco 30th pulley, and wouldn't you know it, my old buddy, Buddy F**ker tried to stick his nose in my business in the form of that neat little "Jims" pulley locking tool not fitting on the inner diameter of the 30th pulley vs the larger inner diameter of the stock pulley, see exhibit 1:

The open space inside the pulleys is different the stock one is larger than the 30 tooth which meant that the Jims tool when installed to lock the pulley in place did not alloy for the socket to also fit inside to lock the nut down.

Now my old friend, BF tried to Co** Block me with this move but fortunately the Jims tool is made in two pieces that are bolted together. So I took it apart...

...and used a clamp to hold the pulley teeth portion in place while I torqued it down.



I have to insert here that although the manual did not state it, I took a little paint brush and applied the lightest hint of anti-seize on the splines that the pulley sits on. I was very careful not to apply in more than the splines would hold. I don't think Moco put any on but I just felt it right, damn me if I erred.



Some things come slowly to me, like sleeping overnight on a problem brings the solution, sometimes I have to sleep longer. But clarity came to me when remembering a picture of Matt's Milwaukee impact wrench and I own a Milwaukee drill that supports the same wrench with the same batteries and so bam, ordered one from Amazon and I'll be damned if that little battery powered bugger zipped that nut off like it was nothing.



Let me tell you, getting the nut off (hehe, I said nut-off ) is easier than cinching it back on. When you go to cinching it down another 35-40 degrees after the 35 ft-lbs of torque for it's final torque, well, you're in for a little surprise if you haven't done that before, and this was my first time. And I'm damn glad I had the impact wrench sitting next to me.

You're damn right, I drove that puppy on with the impact wrench and zip-zang, I think I'm good!

I had cleaned the old locktite off the threads of the nut and the shaft with a little wire wheel on my dremel so, nice and clean for the new Loctite.

As you can see I didn't have any Loctite 271 so I used a can of Loctite spray I have. It says it's "200" so I sprayed two coats so that's like 400 so I should be good with that.



Anyway, life is about leverage, so I think I've made it over this hurdle.
 

Last edited by Suede Blue Man; Feb 21, 2016 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 04:15 PM
  #99  
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That nut has a way of messing with about everybody that comes in contact with it - little monkey turd!

I guess I should get that Milwaukee beast and just grind down my rotor a bit!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 04:49 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Suede Blue Man
Well, I don't own an impact wrench at the moment and may pick one up soon but stopped off at the renter center joint in town and talked to the owner and he said that they don't rent them any longer cause theirs got messed up but that he would do it for me cause I told him I only had one nut to do, so, it's a small town so, you know, that's cool, small town stuff. (How's that for one long sentence!)

So, being the master of leverage I thought I would test my luck with my cheapo HB 1/2" breaker bar, employing my McGruberness at the same time......which led to...

Yes, I used an older BMW exhaust has a cheater bar but I fought the law and the law won The cheater bar worked great, HB did not. That is no doubt, one tough nut to crack but crack it will

So I'll head to get the impact wrench tomorrow and see if it works.

If anyone has any recommendations for a moderately/reasonably priced impact wrench please chime in.
I got a great deal on this beast at a pawn shop. The battery was shot and didn't hold a charge so I got it for $75. A new battery cost me $125.

 
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