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Oh yeah, head work time

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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 02:57 AM
  #151  
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The other thing it could be is the front exhaust pushrod hitting the inside of the tube. It seems fairly common with the S&S Quickee pushrods and tubes.

The adjustment collar part of the pushrod above the locking is quite thick and there's not a lot of clearance between that and bottom of the top part of the pushrod tube.

Nitrusfix suggested a solution in my thread here which worked for me:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...in-or-out.html

But - try just readjusting the pushrods first....
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 08:31 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by adm
The other thing it could be is the front exhaust pushrod hitting the inside of the tube. It seems fairly common with the S&S Quickee pushrods and tubes.

The adjustment collar part of the pushrod above the locking is quite thick and there's not a lot of clearance between that and bottom of the top part of the pushrod tube.

Nitrusfix suggested a solution in my thread here which worked for me:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...in-or-out.html

But - try just readjusting the pushrods first....
Thanks, you must have posted this right after I went to bed. Ended up going to the garage for some midnight wrenching and re-did the front pushrods. Hopefully this morning it fires up with no new noises. If needed I'll check the tube covers.

Since there seems to be no base maps for the fueling 574's and PV2 (the one on the fueling website is not functional), I've taken some advice at HTT and simply increased the engine displacement by 10% on my Andrews tune and will do some auto tunes to get me to the dyno guy!

Will let you know how start up goes.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 08:36 AM
  #153  
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If it's not the PR's maybe give Kirby a call and see if he sunk the valves when working on the heads and if that could cause a knock with your cams. .doubt this is the issue since it only sounds like it's coming from the front cylinder and not both cylinders but I recall sometimes the upper rocker covers require clearancing.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 10:09 AM
  #154  
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Edit.
 

Last edited by misfitJason; Feb 26, 2016 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:18 AM
  #155  
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Having problems embedding video but...

BUTTER BABY!

Adjustment seems to work, sounds beautiful and rode to work smooth although I haven't opened it up yet. Going to autotune for a bit and hope to get the dyno scheduled.

Hoorah!

http://s796.photobucket.com/user/rob...D=1&sort=1&o=0
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:32 AM
  #156  
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Excellent Robby, good work!

Now only if you could post a vid that vids
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:43 AM
  #157  
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Excellent work Robby!!!! Can't wait to get your perspective when everything is broken in.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:46 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Suede Blue Man
Excellent Robby, good work!

Now only if you could post a vid that vids
Stand by, getting it on youtube now.

While I didn't post any good pics or learnings from this most recent mod I will say that other than super tight fitting areas it's really not been that difficult.

Used the Service manual a ton as usual along with the expertise of so many of you who have done this before.

1. Throttle body removal and installation sucks, nuff said on that.
2. Save time in the future, I'll just take the heat shields off the exhaust prior to removal of system so that I don't spend so much time trying to wrangle stuff.
3. Dogbone attachments to get to hard to reach places (like the rear cylinder) are a must, I won't deal with that again without them.
4. Working in 45min-1hr increment sucks
5. Remember to bolt down the cylinders once the heads are off so that you can rotate the pistons for cleaning.

 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:50 AM
  #159  
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Sounds great Robby, got me jonesing and drooling
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #160  
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Thanks! Can't wait to get the dyno scheduled. Think I can open it up a bit after a few short rides?
 
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