Oh yeah, head work time
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
So, on the pr readjustment, did you do anything do anything different from the first time? Seems to sound great now.I am in the camp of not babying it - dont let the engine get hot, don't drone around at the same rpms, but ride it up to at least 5000 rpms if you want.
Just what I did anyway...
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
So where to start, how about
MAMMA MIA!
"Had" to go out and visit an install we're working on. Took it out for a few miles on Interstate, then some normal Palm Desert traffic. It's over 80 degrees right now so it got warm pretty quickly triggering the oil cooler.
I'm not sure how best to express it, whether it's the current tune, the larger throttle body (which I adjusted far better than the last time when I changed my grips), the heads, the cams, or just that I haven't been on the bike for two weeks. But everything just felt absolutely incredible. I don't know that the bike has the abrupt torque curve that it seemed to before, but it rolls so much smoother and keeps on trucking.
Not that I ran out of torque or power before given my riding style but it seemed maybe a little herky jerky. Driving today on the interstate with no cross winds I wound it up to 90mph both quickly and smoothly.
Dunno, but it feels like a completely new bike, and an awesome one, but maybe it's all in my head justifying the expense... nah
MAMMA MIA!
"Had" to go out and visit an install we're working on. Took it out for a few miles on Interstate, then some normal Palm Desert traffic. It's over 80 degrees right now so it got warm pretty quickly triggering the oil cooler.
I'm not sure how best to express it, whether it's the current tune, the larger throttle body (which I adjusted far better than the last time when I changed my grips), the heads, the cams, or just that I haven't been on the bike for two weeks. But everything just felt absolutely incredible. I don't know that the bike has the abrupt torque curve that it seemed to before, but it rolls so much smoother and keeps on trucking.
Not that I ran out of torque or power before given my riding style but it seemed maybe a little herky jerky. Driving today on the interstate with no cross winds I wound it up to 90mph both quickly and smoothly.
Dunno, but it feels like a completely new bike, and an awesome one, but maybe it's all in my head justifying the expense... nah
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 27
From: Australia
good stuff robbyville,
with the tune you have a the moment if would just check the plugs after a good ride to see that they not covered in black soot or white lean, anything in between you good to roll until dyno shop
with the tune you have a the moment if would just check the plugs after a good ride to see that they not covered in black soot or white lean, anything in between you good to roll until dyno shop
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
This is my first experience with the PV2, I know how to access the map and such but if I do need to lean it out a bit what's my best method?
Sorry, I know this is probably somewhere in the big PV thread.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 27
From: Australia
i would of kept original tune and increased the front and rear VE tables by 4-5pts globally
basic autotune runs bike at 14.6:1 air fuel ratio and creates a VE model for your engine
this is stoich, whats considered optimum burn, not rich not lean, although many feel its lean and they start to richen up for a more powerful and cooler motor
if you get that code and carbon fouled plugs with normal riding (not while autotuning) then i would look at changing that map
basic autotune runs bike at 14.6:1 air fuel ratio and creates a VE model for your engine
this is stoich, whats considered optimum burn, not rich not lean, although many feel its lean and they start to richen up for a more powerful and cooler motor
if you get that code and carbon fouled plugs with normal riding (not while autotuning) then i would look at changing that map
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,814
Likes: 2,554
From: UK
Best plan (IMHO) is to go and ride it "normally" in autotune. Do it a bunch of times, and every time, load the new learned map into the ECU, then next time autotune that. It should dial in pretty quick. I normally use "cap" rather than "scale" on the learned values - seems to work OK.
Don't worry about all the cells you don't hit in normal riding as they aren't really that important anyway. Yeah - make sure "normal" riding hits the WOT zones you probably like!
You can also clear the error codes on the PV - then go ride again and see if they crop up again. There have probably been a few thrown given that you worked on the motor. Clear them all and then see if you have any new ones after a good ride...
Don't worry about all the cells you don't hit in normal riding as they aren't really that important anyway. Yeah - make sure "normal" riding hits the WOT zones you probably like!
You can also clear the error codes on the PV - then go ride again and see if they crop up again. There have probably been a few thrown given that you worked on the motor. Clear them all and then see if you have any new ones after a good ride...