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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Thank you. This is info I was looking for. I got a used 2012 Wide Glide and it's vibrating quite a bit more than it should. Front wheel isn't wobbling, just the engine vibrating so much my OL doesn't even want to ride it. So I got to make some adjustments. Interestingly enough, when I first road the bike home oil sprayed everywhere out of the blower. Fixed that issue, but I'd bet dollars to donuts oil soaked the mounts and that's what is now causing all the vibration.
I'm only partially mechanically inclined. Getting better and willing to do stuff myself, but just wondering if this is something I should be able to fix myself or will I be getting in over my head? I'm done with the local dealer and their amateur wrench monkeys. They pissed me off for the last time. So I've got to figure out how to do stuff myself or find a local independent mechanic that won't charge an arm and a leg.
Thank you. This is info I was looking for. I got a used 2012 Wide Glide and it's vibrating quite a bit more than it should. Front wheel isn't wobbling, just the engine vibrating so much my OL doesn't even want to ride it. So I got to make some adjustments. Interestingly enough, when I first road the bike home oil sprayed everywhere out of the blower. Fixed that issue, but I'd bet dollars to donuts oil soaked the mounts and that's what is now causing all the vibration.
I'm only partially mechanically inclined. Getting better and willing to do stuff myself, but just wondering if this is something I should be able to fix myself or will I be getting in over my head? I'm done with the local dealer and their amateur wrench monkeys. They pissed me off for the last time. So I've got to figure out how to do stuff myself or find a local independent mechanic that won't charge an arm and a leg.
Changing the engine mounts is not difficult at all, plenty of info in the forum, just make sure you take your time, have 2 lifts one for the bike, and one a bottle jack is fine with a block of wood to support the engine tranny when you remove the front mount, I would do the front mount first, as this is normally the one that goes first, then loosen front and rear engine mount bolts and reset the engine to center as explained in the service manual, you just run the engine for 5 seconds with the engine mount bolts loose, and bike straight up, then you torque the bolts to about 36nm and then go do a test ride, as I said it is rare for the rear mount to go so just change front first, and test ride, and yes as said before test spokes are tight and true, and like the op said higher have a good look at your tyres make sure they are not collapsing, or have a flat spot somewhere.
Just finished with the predator mount. Took some time getting it in though, had to remove my oil cooler and then ran into an issue with the wiring plugs. I also tightened up the spoke a little and reset the fall away. The fall away was about 6in, spec calls for 3.5-4in. It's now within spec. The test ride felt good. It feels a lot tighter. Kinda reminds me of my old sport bike, nice and tight, but a lot slower than the gsxr. Lol... I'll test out higher speeds this week on the freeway. Thanks for all the help.
Cool glad to hear that, just take your time on the test rides, but basically your ride will be more like the old FXR with the new frame, I must admit I reall loved the old FXR frame with that V in the battery box area, just felt more solid, also looking at your ride, if you get a tiny wobble at speed that can come from the wind hitting your massive saddlebags, I get a slight wobble now and again in the wind when I do not tighten my jacket up enough, thats all it needs to affect handling.
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