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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Hey guys, I have a pretty stock 16' FXDL. I wanna add some taller bars (12"-14"). Im not sure if risers and bars are the way to go or straight up tall T-bars. I know this has been discussed, but I'm looking specifically for the Lowrider. Can someone tell me what cable length I'd need for 14" bars. Plus, I kinda like the Lucky Daves 13 Bars, anybody got em???? Thanks for the help guys!
Don't know how tall you are or your riding style, but I think 12-14" is pretty tall regardless and I guess it can cause premature fatigue in your arms and shoulder in the longer rides. Like tall apes. I had a straight up t bar on my previous bike(8") and it was eh, ... On my dyna now, I have 8" riser with high tracker bars that takes it to approximately 10" and my arms are perpendicular with the ground. You have more adjustability with riser-bar setup and hands down, that setup is better then a t bar. More rigid as well. I guess you have more control with a lower bar.
ow, I have 8" riser with high tracker bars that takes it to approximately 10" and my arms are perpendicular with the ground. You have more adjustability with riser-bar setup and hands down, that setup is better then a t bar. More rigid as well.
Bars clamped in risers are more rigid than welded bar/riser combo?(T bars) I don't think so...
OP if you want 12 - 14" bars the only way to know if you like them is to try them. Lotsa people do like them. Others like low bars.
I just had Lucky Dave's 12" San Diego bars and bushings fitted to my FXDLS. I'm 5'8" and the bars sit a fraction below my shoulder height. I've only done about 50 miles with them, but have to say these things are fantastic. Most people recommend the 14", but majority of them are +6'. I took a gamble going with the 12", and i'm glad i did, the bars are perfectly placed for me. Lane-splitting is so much easier with these than with any other bars i've had.
Don't cheap out, buy the bushings too, they make a huge difference.
Just to clarify my remark My bike had 4" risers with 10" buckhorn mini apes. This was the stock set up for My model and year.
I didn't like the buckhorn so I went with 10" standard mini apes but the cables didn't reach. So I changed out the risers to 2" but missed the extra height.
I replaced the stock cables with the chrome ones so I went longer knowing I was going to raise the bars.
I reinstalled the 4" risers with the 10" bars and it just didn't look right.
So I got 12" and 14" burs, decided on the 14" with the 2" risers and put the wires IN the bars. that opened up a whole different project of extending the wires.
But not I have the look and height I want. and they're comfortable. For ME. And that's only important to ME. Buckhorns on 4" risers that you can't see Standard 10" bars on 2" risers 14" on 2" risers
Bars clamped in risers are more rigid than welded bar/riser combo?(T bars) I don't think so...
OP if you want 12 - 14" bars the only way to know if you like them is to try them. Lotsa people do like them. Others like low bars.
Dude, yeah it is more rigid. Look at the design on both again and tell me. Riser clamp has a larger connecting area than two welded spots(tbar). Risers often has a beefier design than tbar. Tbar just have a weak tube for riser part, proper risers have different design with better bracing. I tried both and you clearly can twist a tbar with less force.
For the height you've mentioned you'll be able to use Street Bob Clutch and Throttle/Idle cables I have these on my 2010. (8" risers with 4" bars) and are dirt cheap. Brake lines you'll need to go aftermarket (Like Magnum)
Wires - there should be ample in the excess length (currently shoved in the neck)
Risers and bars give you more adjustability and if you get some better bushings there should be zero play.
Last edited by Tall Timber; Dec 25, 2018 at 12:24 PM.
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So its time for some Bars!
