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questioning what dealer told me

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by nitro2go
In my opinion the best way to tell if your bike is running lean or rich is to simply pull the spark plugs. If the electrodes are white, you're lean. If they're black, you're rich.
I've read here that with the current tunes and fuel, reading plugs is unreliable at best, misleading at worst.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #62  
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Absolutely rediculous!!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by sniper77
I guess some of you don't know the closed loop, narrow band O2 sensor system of '06 was changed to the wide band, open loop system in '07.
That's fine, I'm sure no damage will be done by opting to go with a tuner and a few hundred dollars worth of dyno time that you really don't need.
Sniper___thats gotta be the most rediculous thing I've heard here!!! There are many ways to get an education about this topic...I suggest you get a new method!!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #64  
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I have a pc and notice a huge difference
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:24 PM
  #65  
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SERT here, works real nice...
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #66  
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Default Closed loop O2 systems will take care of anything?

Anytime fuel requirements change significantly (ie: cams, exhaust, heads, etc) the base fuel mapping that the systems relies on in closed loop is too far away so the closed loop operation cannot function properly.

That said if the mapping is to lean in open loop, every time the engine is loaded (ie: full throttle or climbing a steep grade) the system jumps out of closed loop and into a leaner open loop runing.

If you ride at steady state on flat road the system will be in closed loop 100% of the time. Whack the throttle or climb a mountain and the system runs in open loop most of the time.
Hoping this helps,
Bob
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:09 AM
  #67  
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Whenever the amount of, or how the motor processes air is changed, you must recalibrate. Period!!! The major components influencing air flow are the exhaust system, air cleaner, motor size, heads and cams. If any of these are changed, the fuel (via the VE and AFR tables) and, typically, the tuning constants table in the ECM must change to match (synchronize) both the increases and decreases in air flow and physical characteristics of the motor caused by those component changes.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #68  
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I have the same bike with the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2+2 the SE AC stage1 with the SE super tuner bike runs great after my break in is done i plan on getting it dyno tuned currently its just a preset download i get a lil decel popping that i think after its tuned will go away
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by BlockHead96
With the TTS, you can change everything! That said, the stage one, with or without either component, pipes or intake, is still lean! Even with both pipes and Air cleaner and Stage 1 Download, is lean! The Stage 1 AC and pipes and stage 1 down load are only good, if using SE pipes. This is what this package is designed for. But, it's still a lean program!!! You will still have heat issues!
I don't have any heat issues. My plugs look normal.

The nice thing about the SERT is that HD receives software upgrades based on popular setups. Most HD dealers around here sell Rush and Cycle Shack slip-ons. Since my first dyno tune, there's been 2 software upgrades for my set-up. My last dyno tune yielded another hp and 3 more lbs. of torque.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:49 AM
  #70  
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and just let me add one more thing.... on my previous bike it was a 2007 xl1200c i added the vance and hines shortshots with the stage 1 SE AC and only a flash to my stock cpu the bike was constantly backfiring it sounded like crap. if i didnt trade it in i was goin to get the race tuner installed... i would recommend getting the tuner installed off the bat it will save you head ache. my dealer gave me an awesome deal on the whole set up
 
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