Yes if you look at the pic in post #294 you see the oil pan in between the "moved" pads. It's the Dyna oil pan that causes the issue with lifts.

I also put 3/8" plywood pads but that is only to give a bit more room for the clutch cable as it goes under the crankcase.

You have to buy longer bolts to move the pads to the outside of the brace. Most recommend buying Grade 8 bolts (at Ace Hardware) when you move the pads to suffice the leverage factor. Some also drill the holes out to accomodate a full 1/2" bolt. The H.F. OEM bolt is slightly less than 1/2" diameter.

 

FWIW, my bike was on my HF lift with the "blocks relocated to the outer edge" mod for almost 7 weeks, with zero issues. Stayed stable for a whole front end tear down and rebuild. I drilled the mount holes out to accomodate 1/2" bolts and made up pads for the forward block to leave a little more room for the clutch cable exactly as R_W_B is suggesting. Worked perfectly.

 

I made the change with Grade 8 bolts. It works great. I also had to use some plywood to make it work. I used a bungee cord to pull up the clutch cable and get it out of the way. Thanks again everyone for the great tips.

 

im doing this tomorrow, where are you placing the plywood? and is it permanent or is it just placed on the pad,,,is there clearance for that?

 

The wood blocks aren't permanent. I wrapped them tightly in duct tape to keep them from splitting then taped to them in place while positioning the jack. Fully MacGyvered but effective.

 

I really do not see why you would do that, sort of defeats the purpose of the mod in the first place.
There is plenty of room for the clutch cable if you have it routed correctly, I have never had an issue, if yours is close, just double check before you fully lift.
Using blocks like that really decreases the ease as well since you have a limited position avaialable to support the bike.

 

thx again,,, i took the pads off this morning so i can separate them with a band-saw i have at work....should have bike in the air tonight so i can start the mods i didn't get to last year....

 

So, if I have read and understand all of the above posts correctly....

The "best" frame lift points for the modified Sears red lift are just forward of the nobbie protrusions that extent downward where the mid-footpegs mount on a Low Rider and aft enough to clear the oil pan? This would seem to put the front bunk in front of the jiffy stand, correct?

Can someone measure the distance from bunk to bunk (I.D.) on their modified jack for me? Just want to verify that the "mod" will work on the '06 FXDLI frame.

Thanks!

Great idea Vic!

 

With the exception of the Wide Glide all Dyna frames are the same in 06 through 09, and even the Wide Glide is the same as far as this mod is concerned.

 

I got a Sears Red Jack from a co-worker who had upgraded to a PitBull lift. He gave it to me, so I was excited to try it out with this mod.
(It was funny that I just mentioned that I was going to get a lift this weekend from Sears (on sale for $99). He said "I have one I don't don't need any more, I'll bring it in for you"
Anyway, I did the mod with no problem (Sawzall with a Bimetal blade make QUICK work of the center bar!).
I have an 08 Fat Bob and have a problem with jack placement. I looked at Vic's pics in post 73 and see where he hits the frame. On mine, if I go immediately behind the oil pan frame guard I run DEAD into the middle of the Jiffy stand. If I move it forward to clear the Jiffy stand (and stop) it is on the pan. Is the FBob frame different? Is there something I may be doing wrong?
I see others that have used this with FBob without complaint.
I can post pics if necessary

BTW I am trying to lift from exhaust side :-)

Thanks