Sears red jack modification
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
I also put 3/8" plywood pads but that is only to give a bit more room for the clutch cable as it goes under the crankcase.
You have to buy longer bolts to move the pads to the outside of the brace. Most recommend buying Grade 8 bolts (at Ace Hardware) when you move the pads to suffice the leverage factor. Some also drill the holes out to accomodate a full 1/2" bolt. The H.F. OEM bolt is slightly less than 1/2" diameter.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Georgia
FWIW, my bike was on my HF lift with the "blocks relocated to the outer edge" mod for almost 7 weeks, with zero issues. Stayed stable for a whole front end tear down and rebuild. I drilled the mount holes out to accomodate 1/2" bolts and made up pads for the forward block to leave a little more room for the clutch cable exactly as R_W_B is suggesting. Worked perfectly.
Last edited by hopwheels; Jan 8, 2012 at 08:20 AM.
Novice
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: California
Success!!
Yes if you look at the pic in post #294 you see the oil pan in between the "moved" pads. It's the Dyna oil pan that causes the issue with lifts.
I also put 3/8" plywood pads but that is only to give a bit more room for the clutch cable as it goes under the crankcase.
You have to buy longer bolts to move the pads to the outside of the brace. Most recommend buying Grade 8 bolts (at Ace Hardware) when you move the pads to suffice the leverage factor. Some also drill the holes out to accomodate a full 1/2" bolt. The H.F. OEM bolt is slightly less than 1/2" diameter.
I also put 3/8" plywood pads but that is only to give a bit more room for the clutch cable as it goes under the crankcase.
You have to buy longer bolts to move the pads to the outside of the brace. Most recommend buying Grade 8 bolts (at Ace Hardware) when you move the pads to suffice the leverage factor. Some also drill the holes out to accomodate a full 1/2" bolt. The H.F. OEM bolt is slightly less than 1/2" diameter.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 205
From: ORYGON
FWIW, my bike was on my HF lift with the "blocks relocated to the outer edge" mod for almost 7 weeks, with zero issues. Stayed stable for a whole front end tear down and rebuild. I drilled the mount holes out to accomodate 1/2" bolts and made up pads for the forward block to leave a little more room for the clutch cable exactly as R_W_B is suggesting. Worked perfectly.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
There is plenty of room for the clutch cable if you have it routed correctly, I have never had an issue, if yours is close, just double check before you fully lift.
Using blocks like that really decreases the ease as well since you have a limited position avaialable to support the bike.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: NC
So, if I have read and understand all of the above posts correctly....
The "best" frame lift points for the modified Sears red lift are just forward of the nobbie protrusions that extent downward where the mid-footpegs mount on a Low Rider and aft enough to clear the oil pan? This would seem to put the front bunk in front of the jiffy stand, correct?
Can someone measure the distance from bunk to bunk (I.D.) on their modified jack for me? Just want to verify that the "mod" will work on the '06 FXDLI frame.
Thanks!
Great idea Vic!
The "best" frame lift points for the modified Sears red lift are just forward of the nobbie protrusions that extent downward where the mid-footpegs mount on a Low Rider and aft enough to clear the oil pan? This would seem to put the front bunk in front of the jiffy stand, correct?
Can someone measure the distance from bunk to bunk (I.D.) on their modified jack for me? Just want to verify that the "mod" will work on the '06 FXDLI frame.
Thanks!
Great idea Vic!
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
So, if I have read and understand all of the above posts correctly....
The "best" frame lift points for the modified Sears red lift are just forward of the nobbie protrusions that extent downward where the mid-footpegs mount on a Low Rider and aft enough to clear the oil pan? This would seem to put the front bunk in front of the jiffy stand, correct?
Can someone measure the distance from bunk to bunk (I.D.) on their modified jack for me? Just want to verify that the "mod" will work on the '06 FXDLI frame.
Thanks!
Great idea Vic!
The "best" frame lift points for the modified Sears red lift are just forward of the nobbie protrusions that extent downward where the mid-footpegs mount on a Low Rider and aft enough to clear the oil pan? This would seem to put the front bunk in front of the jiffy stand, correct?
Can someone measure the distance from bunk to bunk (I.D.) on their modified jack for me? Just want to verify that the "mod" will work on the '06 FXDLI frame.
Thanks!
Great idea Vic!
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Southern Indiana
I got a Sears Red Jack from a co-worker who had upgraded to a PitBull lift. He gave it to me, so I was excited to try it out with this mod.
(It was funny that I just mentioned that I was going to get a lift this weekend from Sears (on sale for $99). He said "I have one I don't don't need any more, I'll bring it in for you"
Anyway, I did the mod with no problem (Sawzall with a Bimetal blade make QUICK work of the center bar!).
I have an 08 Fat Bob and have a problem with jack placement. I looked at Vic's pics in post 73 and see where he hits the frame. On mine, if I go immediately behind the oil pan frame guard I run DEAD into the middle of the Jiffy stand. If I move it forward to clear the Jiffy stand (and stop) it is on the pan. Is the FBob frame different? Is there something I may be doing wrong?
I see others that have used this with FBob without complaint.
I can post pics if necessary
BTW I am trying to lift from exhaust side :-)
Thanks
(It was funny that I just mentioned that I was going to get a lift this weekend from Sears (on sale for $99). He said "I have one I don't don't need any more, I'll bring it in for you"
Anyway, I did the mod with no problem (Sawzall with a Bimetal blade make QUICK work of the center bar!).
I have an 08 Fat Bob and have a problem with jack placement. I looked at Vic's pics in post 73 and see where he hits the frame. On mine, if I go immediately behind the oil pan frame guard I run DEAD into the middle of the Jiffy stand. If I move it forward to clear the Jiffy stand (and stop) it is on the pan. Is the FBob frame different? Is there something I may be doing wrong?
I see others that have used this with FBob without complaint.
I can post pics if necessary
BTW I am trying to lift from exhaust side :-)
Thanks