Sears red jack modification
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
On my '09 the aft support sits directly under the flat bar and I use the 5/8" plywood block on the other end of the support to keep the bike level. There is no need to move the support any farther aft and no need for spacing the supports farther apart than just outside the lifting arms.
Last edited by lo-rider; Jun 24, 2012 at 11:45 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
On my '09 the aft support sits directly under the flat bar and I use the 5/8" plywood block on the other end of the support, to keep the bike level. There is no need to move the support any farther aft and no need for spacing the support farther apart than just outside the lifting arms.
There is no need for any block of wood or anything else if you modify this lift as instructed.
Using a block defeats the purpose, and since you are not a fan of this mod, WTF do you even comment for? Never mind I need no answer from you as it is usually mindless drivel.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Why don't you give up, if there was not a need for an additional spacer I sure as hell would not have added it.
There is no need for any block of wood or anything else if you modify this lift as instructed.
Using a block defeats the purpose, and since you are not a fan of this mod, WTF do you even comment for? Never mind I need no answer from you as it is usually mindless drivel.
There is no need for any block of wood or anything else if you modify this lift as instructed.
Using a block defeats the purpose, and since you are not a fan of this mod, WTF do you even comment for? Never mind I need no answer from you as it is usually mindless drivel.
In fact I'm one of the biggest supporters of this mod and one of the first do it, w/ photos of my own stage I additional mod posted early in this thread (page 13).
The way my modified Sears jack lifts my '09 FXDC the support doesn't trap the jiffy stand bumper, the way yours does. Someone asked why I used the 5/8" block--it's so I can position the jack a bit more forward, avoiding the end of the flat bar.
The spacers I referred to are the cobbled up stack of spacers and washers in someone else's post (next).
Thanks for all the great info here.... I have moded a "Big Red Lift" by Torin which I guess is a lot narrower.... On the left side I dont think I can clear the bars that I think are protecting the oil pan... what do you think? Larger spacers on the left...
I used Grage 8 7/16 bolts which meant I didnt have to bore out the existing holes.
I used Grage 8 7/16 bolts which meant I didnt have to bore out the existing holes.
I know why you put the spacer in there, I also used some spacers just to make things quicker. But, I would lose that long spacer and go with a 1/2" spacer on each side. That long of a spacer and you are going to have problems later on as it weakens the mounting area and bolt.
Just picked up one of these Sears lifts on CL for $66. Inspired by Vic's mods, I have added what I believe to be an important safety feature. Moving the supports outboard creates a cantilevered load, heavily stressing the new longer bolts. So I have installed a new "spreader bar" to stabilize the top channels.
The photos show how the original short bolts create a simple, closely supported load w/o cantilever, and how the new longer grade 8 bolts introduce a greater bending moment. To allow more safe load-carrying capacity, I have installed a 7/8" solid 1018 steel bar which goes all the way through both top channels, preventing sagging of the channels. I drilled new holes through the inner channel legs, offsetting them as far as possible to allow for minimum lowered height. Cost was $11 for the round bar plus welding. Space between the channels was sized to allow room for a flat washer between upper and lower channels. Also I removed the tie-down strap loops at one end (as shown) since the strap hooks can interfere w/ lowering, and the straps can easily be hooked under the lift frame itself.
The photos show how the original short bolts create a simple, closely supported load w/o cantilever, and how the new longer grade 8 bolts introduce a greater bending moment. To allow more safe load-carrying capacity, I have installed a 7/8" solid 1018 steel bar which goes all the way through both top channels, preventing sagging of the channels. I drilled new holes through the inner channel legs, offsetting them as far as possible to allow for minimum lowered height. Cost was $11 for the round bar plus welding. Space between the channels was sized to allow room for a flat washer between upper and lower channels. Also I removed the tie-down strap loops at one end (as shown) since the strap hooks can interfere w/ lowering, and the straps can easily be hooked under the lift frame itself.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Quit shooting your mouth off when you don't know what you're talking about.
In fact I'm one of the biggest supporters of this mod and one of the first do it, w/ photos of my own stage I additional mod posted early in this thread (page 13).
The way my modified Sears jack lifts my '09 FXDC the support doesn't trap the jiffy stand bumper, the way yours does. Someone asked why I used the 5/8" block--it's so I can position the jack a bit more forward, avoiding the end of the flat bar.
The spacers I referred to are the cobbled up stack of spacers and washers in someone else's post (next).
In fact I'm one of the biggest supporters of this mod and one of the first do it, w/ photos of my own stage I additional mod posted early in this thread (page 13).
The way my modified Sears jack lifts my '09 FXDC the support doesn't trap the jiffy stand bumper, the way yours does. Someone asked why I used the 5/8" block--it's so I can position the jack a bit more forward, avoiding the end of the flat bar.
The spacers I referred to are the cobbled up stack of spacers and washers in someone else's post (next).
I should have learned by now to never even bother reading your posts as they are usually less than helpful, you always feel the need to complicate everything.
Do what you want with yours.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Thought I'd offer to try and clear this up for the final time.
Keep it simple.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJHdSXHiNVg
Keep it simple.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJHdSXHiNVg
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Nice work Vic
I see now why I needed spacers, you slide it in at a slight angle, I didn't catch that part before, with the little bit of spacer it goes in straight so it does not catch the far left end of the oil pan skid bar.
Either way, it just works like a champ.
Thanks for taking the time Vic.
I see now why I needed spacers, you slide it in at a slight angle, I didn't catch that part before, with the little bit of spacer it goes in straight so it does not catch the far left end of the oil pan skid bar.
Either way, it just works like a champ.
Thanks for taking the time Vic.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Vic,
thanks for posting that.
One thing I would add is: for bikes that are a little too low to just slide the jack under, just tip the bike more upright by pulling on the near-side handlebar grip, while sliding the jack underneath.
thanks for posting that.
One thing I would add is: for bikes that are a little too low to just slide the jack under, just tip the bike more upright by pulling on the near-side handlebar grip, while sliding the jack underneath.