Sears red jack modification
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
First, you actually did not restore the OE design, the OE design had a rod between the pads to join them together, and there was no spacer like you created they bolted directly on the lifting arms.
Second there is no need to tighten the nuts on those bolts that tight but even if you did with a washer they still function. You can also use nylocks or jam nuts to achieve the same result.
While you may have made a slight improvement, it is an unnecessary step. Mine has been working without a hitch for over 2 years now.
Second there is no need to tighten the nuts on those bolts that tight but even if you did with a washer they still function. You can also use nylocks or jam nuts to achieve the same result.
While you may have made a slight improvement, it is an unnecessary step. Mine has been working without a hitch for over 2 years now.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Thanks for your explination. I understand that I didn't completely restore the OE designe. And that wasn't my goal. I was only trying to alleviate the friction created by thru-bolting without solid spacers. The origanil design had the torsional forces of the bolts applied to the skid frame only. The skid itself was free to rotate on the lifting arms. This was my goal.
Thank You
Thank You
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 676
Likes: 2
From: Glendale, AZ
Thanks for the good close up pics of the modification even if we dont use the spacers. It shows how the whole thing goes together well.. As for your modification..., a lock nut would achieve the same results, as you would just not tighten it down all the way leaving enough play for free rotation. I have not got around to this mod....but am going to do it ASAP now that I see the "light". 
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Thanks for the good close up pics of the modification even if we dont use the spacers. It shows how the whole thing goes together well.. As for your modification..., a lock nut would achieve the same results, as you would just not tighten it down all the way leaving enough play for free rotation. I have not got around to this mod....but am going to do it ASAP now that I see the "light".
1) Leaving the bolt loose enough to not restrict motion added to much play in the areas that were actually doing the lifting
2) The threaded portion of the bolt has less shear strenght than the sholder portion of the bolt.
3) The locking nut would add extra cantilever distance to the "close side" skid.
If you have acces to a welder, you could weld the bolts in place to the lifting arms. This would eliminate the need for thru-spacers.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Yes, It would be possible to use a bolt that is completely threaded. Then use locking nuts to isolate the skid. But this presents a few problems that I atempted to avoid.
1) Leaving the bolt loose enough to not restrict motion added to much play in the areas that were actually doing the lifting
2) The threaded portion of the bolt has less shear strenght than the sholder portion of the bolt.
3) The locking nut would add extra cantilever distance to the "close side" skid.
If you have acces to a welder, you could weld the bolts in place to the lifting arms. This would eliminate the need for thru-spacers.
1) Leaving the bolt loose enough to not restrict motion added to much play in the areas that were actually doing the lifting
2) The threaded portion of the bolt has less shear strenght than the sholder portion of the bolt.
3) The locking nut would add extra cantilever distance to the "close side" skid.
If you have acces to a welder, you could weld the bolts in place to the lifting arms. This would eliminate the need for thru-spacers.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Guess that I may be somewhat of a perfectionist. I can't afford to drop a $16K bike either. The friction added by the bolts just didn't feel right to me when the bolts were tight. And the sloppy fealing didn't feel right when the bolts were loose enough to allow free movement. For what it's worth. This was my solution.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Guess that I may be somewhat of a perfectionist. I can't afford to drop a $16K bike either. The friction added by the bolts just didn't feel right to me when the bolts were tight. And the sloppy fealing didn't feel right when the bolts were loose enough to allow free movement. For what it's worth. This was my solution.
Do you think we want to drop our bikes? I have a shitload more than 16k invested in mine.
Try reading these...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/8731012-post280.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9010952-post289.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9011044-post291.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9012233-post298.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9013651-post303.html
Last edited by 8541hog; Jun 11, 2012 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Added another link
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Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Try reading these...
Well I wouldn't have felt safe lifting your bikes with the previous arrangement either. Much less my own. I personally feel more comfortable with this new arrangement. And I feel like I could trust it if I was asked to loan it out to anyone. I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.