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Sears red jack modification

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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
Nice work Vic
I see now why I needed spacers, you slide it in at a slight angle, I didn't catch that part before, with the little bit of spacer it goes in straight so it does not catch the far left end of the oil pan skid bar.
Do the nylon spacers help with free movement of the lift. I think i saw somewhere else in this thread something about if you tighten it too much it binds... or something along those lines.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #432  
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There is no advantage to over-tightening. A flat washer between the supports and the lifting arms is all that's needed.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #433  
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Thanks for the part 2 video, Vic. I'm simple and a lot of people say I'm stupid too, so this works for me.

Does this thread have you pulling your long-hair out? lol.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by Ventana
Do the nylon spacers help with free movement of the lift. I think i saw somewhere else in this thread something about if you tighten it too much it binds... or something along those lines.
As lo-rider suggested even a flat washer will help prevent binding, but yes the nylon spacer also frees up the metal to metal movement.
I did not torque down the nuts at all, just enough to engage the lock washers.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 06:50 AM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
See if this pics help. But you have the lift pads way too spaced outward for my comfort.
As you can see I have 1/2" nylon spacers between the lifting arms and pads.
Thanks for the pics... I definetly have a problem with this Torin then... I can't clear the flat bar I am pointing to on your last pick (see pic)... even with 2 1/2" of spacers my outside to outside distance is 18". Yours is 19"+ and so is Vic's in his Vid part 2 video. I guess this lift is too narrow to modify and wont clear that flat bar
 
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Last edited by kiethf; Jun 25, 2012 at 04:50 PM. Reason: correct crap sperling
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #436  
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Just move the jack 2-1/2" forward and use the 5/8" block on the other end of the support. Try it.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #437  
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
Just move the jack 2-1/2" forward and use the 5/8" block on the other end of the support. Try it.
Well that worked!! The left hand fork goes right under the oil pan but I guess that piece of wood keeps a space?? Who knew.. i'll try it again in the light of day to make sure its not putting any preasure on the pan... is this the way you always use it?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 09:59 PM
  #438  
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That is how I use mine, just make sure you are not pinching the clutch cable with the front pad. If you clear the Voltage regulator, you just miss the cable.

Edit: I use a piece of 3/4" - 2"x2" dbl face taped to the end of the pad. It makes the frame sit flat. Grade 12 bolts that are OVERKILL!
 

Last edited by Gommee; Jun 27, 2012 at 03:02 PM. Reason: add edit
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #439  
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That's it.

I cut my block the width of the support X 4" long. You can simply tape it in place on the support end.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 07:02 AM
  #440  
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I don't know but that piece if wood looks like its bending under force. Could be an issue.
 
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