Sears red jack modification
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Thanks for the pic 8541hog, I think i have figured why the lift arms hit my jiffy! My Sears jack is only 12 11/16" inches from outside to outside the lift arms instead of the 13 7/16th" in your pics. I didn't get this jack new so I have no idea how old it is. They must have changed the design of the jack since mine was made.
Wonder if I should just get a new jack at this point...
Wonder if I should just get a new jack at this point...
I have about an 1 1/4" spacer on one side. That was all I needed to make my lift work. If this cantilever is trust worthy ( I think it is ). Then it should be just as trust worthy if I had to install one on the other side.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Cantilevered so much, like that, puts unnecessary twisting moment on the lifting arm. If you sight down the supports, w/ your bike just off the floor, you'll see how much twist it causes.
Not recommended.
Not recommended.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Understood! But I havn't found a better way - yet.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
If you look at this pic
and compare it to the ones I posted, there is a huge difference in the supports, the extra spacers are causing some serious stress on those bolts, this is not something I would recommend.
and compare it to the ones I posted, there is a huge difference in the supports, the extra spacers are causing some serious stress on those bolts, this is not something I would recommend.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Recommendations duely noted.
Actually, I personally feal that my new spacer design has added ridgity to the cantilever design. I've used it a couple of times. And untill I find a better way, it will surfice.
Actually, I personally feal that my new spacer design has added ridgity to the cantilever design. I've used it a couple of times. And untill I find a better way, it will surfice.
Last edited by FXDWG12; Jul 5, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Is the deflection any greater than the "offset" design. Maybe just more noticable with the extra length of the cantilever?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Of course the deflection is greater. There is a much larger lever twisting the lifting arms.
Looking at the photo, the block of wood is even being tipped because the spacing of the supports is too wide for the bike.
Looking at the photo, the block of wood is even being tipped because the spacing of the supports is too wide for the bike.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 6
From: Arkansas
Come on guys. Bottom line here: This is all I got to work with without going to the HD Lifting blocks ( that aint happenin ). All 4 bolts combined have a shear rateing 3 times the lifting capacity of the lift itself ( not to mention that I have sleaved mine with 1/2" schedual 40 ridgid pipe ). All 4 bolts have a shear rateing more tha 4 times the weight of the bike. My lift is a little different than the one you have pictured ( dont know why ). I don't know what the shear rateing is on 1" by 2" schedual 40 square tubeing. But I'm betting my bike that it is more than 700#. And there is 4 of them also.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
It isn't shear loads, at all, that are the concern; it's bending loads way out at the ends of those long bolts. Have it your own way, but I am only trying to discourage anyone else from copying a deficient and potentially unsafe plan.