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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Fear mongering? Scaring the crap out of people? Come on.
It has been a long time since I modified mine so I don't remember the bolt size required. But I recall someone in the thread boring out their holes way oversize, which can weaken the walls of the lifting arms.
My word of caution applies also to those who are unnecessarily increasing the cantilever by installing large or multiple spacers with extra-long bolts. Just use your head when making mods and you'll be OK.
OK, now that I recall, I did have to drill out the holes a little...used a unibit ( also known as a stepping bit) and it took all of 5 minutes for all four holes.
The original bolts are metric and metric bolts cost a lot more if you want to go that way. You can save on nuts and washers by using the original metric ones.
Nah, I was looking at a new wide glide but decided to keep my FXDXi at least another season.
After revisiting this thread, I purchased a Sears Jack this week and will do the mod next weekend. Not sure if I'm gonna have issues with my FXDX as it is lowered with Progressive 11" shocks. I'm hoping it won't be a problem as the FXDX starts out with more ground clearance the other dynas. The on-line specs don't really correspond to my real world measurements. Not sure why but on-line says the stock ground clearance is 5.9". When i got down there and measured from the ground to the frame it was 7" and the seat height was 29".
I'm 5' 9" with a 29" inseam and the height was starting to give me problems. I'm a lot older now and had some major surgery the last 3 years. I wasn't feeling comfortable so i was looking to get a lower sitting bike. I really couldn't justify the 17K right now for a new Wideglide so I put about $300 into lowering the FXDX to about the same specs that the new wide glides had. Anyway, I'll do the mod as it's a great one and deal with getting the jack under there with some of the suggestions I've read here.
BTW, I could see and hear your frustration in your second video. All i can say is, to each his own and you shouldn't feel you need to defend your mod. People can do it or not do it any way the wish. You did good. One of the really useful mods I've seen.
You're absolutely correct. The funny part is I'm the one usually over-thinking stuff. lol
As for your bike being lowered, I don't think the jack will work out for you. Probably have to roll the bike up on some wood (2x4 or 2x6) to raise it up enough.
Originally Posted by dBone
Glad I found this thread my sears jack has been a dust collector.
You're absolutely correct. The funny part is I'm the one usually over-thinking stuff. lol
As for your bike being lowered, I don't think the jack will work out for you. Probably have to roll the bike up on some wood (2x4 or 2x6) to raise it up enough.
My FXDB is lowered (slightly, 11.5" vice stock 12" shocks), and the jack works fine for me without blocks. It knocks that little rubber pad for the jiffy stand off the frame when I push it through, but that's a minor inconvenience. I just pop it back on when I'm done.
Great mod again SC. My buddy saw mine and asked me to come over next weekend and help him mod his.
As for your bike being lowered, I don't think the jack will work out for you. Probably have to roll the bike up on some wood (2x4 or 2x6) to raise it up enough.
Yeah, I went out an measured this morning. I have about 4" clearance at the lowest point (rear). It's a small inconvenience so i'm not too upset with it.
Ok, so, where does the 2x4 go, front or back or both? lol.
Oh and I checked the specs on all the new Dynas and it looks like none will be able to slip this jack under without wood under the wheel as they are all under 5".
Must be all the people saying thanks to SC-Longhair. I just did the mod, took less than an hour.
Sears red jack, model 50190
Remove old bolts. (4 new 1/2"x6" bolts, 12 washers, 4 nylock nuts)
Cut parts. (4-1/2" grinder and cut-off saw make it go fast.)
Smooth rough edges. (grinder)
Paint. (optional)
Enlarge holes in lift pad and reassemble. (unibit-style step drill worked great)
Lift bike
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