The bike is a stock height LowRider. The jack was hitting the kick stand and I could not slide the jack in far enough. I pushed the jack in as far as it would go and then I got on the bike and stood her up and closed the stand. I pushed the jack the rest of the way under the bike and it worked perfectly. I will try and remember that the stand is up when I lower her down....Thanks Again. I might try and move the front support bar back further to avoid the kick stand but I did not feel like cutting and welding the front bar. I might due that mod later but I wanted to get on with the business at hand and get the work done that was needed so I could ride.....

 

The problem is the bolt head hits on that kickstand protrusion. If I move it forward, the rear pad tries to hit the oil pan. I just grabbed four more 1/2" spacers at the hardware store, I'm going to give it a go after work and hope for success. If not, I'm going to try again with 1/2" bolts and longer spacers.

 

Yep so I'm a dumbass. I didn't have enough spacers for my jack. I now have 1/2" on the pad in the rear and 1" on the front pad. Just tried it out and it worked great. I'm going to convert to 1/2" hardware all the way through instead of the 7/16" stuff. I need longer bolts on the front now anyways. And cut the middle front rubber off the top of the pad to clear my clutch cable a bit more, just in case.

 

Since we're extrending to load bearing part of the jack further out, I highly recommend using the stronger 1/2" hardware.

 

Yep, I stated in my post I'm converting it over to all 1/2" hardware. Gonna use the grade 8 stuff for sure. It will be all 1/2" stuff before I use it again. I think I have a narrower jack than the original, saw some discussion in here about that. At least I solved the issue!

 

I don't know about the Sears width when you modify it but when I added washers for spacers and used 5" grade 8 bolts the width from outside to outside on my HF is 21".

 

Be aware that increasing bolt size weakens the lifting arms.

 

You'd be better to be concerned with the In-In measurement since most of what we are trying to dodge will fit in between the pads, not outside of them.

 

Really? I remember when I reamed out the holes to accommodate 1/2" hardware. A minimum of material was needed to be removed.

The stock hardware was smaller and I'm sure it was grade 2.

Again...the jack is rated for 1500lbs, and the Dyna weighs approx 50% of that, wet. I just don't subscribe to the mild fear-mongering you're trying to bestow. Obviously making the mod is up to the end-user. If you choose not to do it, great but stop trying to scare the crap out of people.

Don't you remember seeing the photos of 8541Hog's modded jack lifting his car?

 

The 7/16" hardware has a loose fit in the holes already. Maybe a 1/32" loose. Barely, but its there. So opening the holes another 1/32" to 1/16" to accomodate a set of 1/2" hardware is removing barely any material at all. Plus, the jack has to be stronger with the bolts fitting the holes without slop in them. Less levering torque action on them. Many here have done it in 1/2", I will too. Mine works with 7/16", but I'll feel better with tighter fitting bolts and its only going to cost me another ten bucks. Still way far ahead of buying a more expensive jack.

Thank you to SC for originally modding this years ago and thank you to all the advice from others in here.