Cams
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
I think if I was going to buy a 'programmer', I'd go with TTS Mastertune. Depends how much of a techie you are though. Cheaper than I thought it was. JP Cycles has it for $424 and change.
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Well, I didn't finish it today. Life gets in the way. I did have a few hours to work on it though. Not really in a rush since my riding time is limited.
I spoke with Thedonthere about some things last night (Thanks again Don!) and he brought up the oil pump sumping. Is that when you turn the motor and the oil is being pumped out of the relief valve on the cam plate back into the cam chest or is that supposed to happen?
When I find TDC of the front cylinder I just can't get the crank to line up right. Frustrating. I'm not that far into it. I may pull the cam plate back out and start fresh the next round of wrenching.
Also, the 4* advance gear I bought was the wrong part number as I posted earlier. When I tried to fit it, the teeth on it are too wide and won't grab the chain. The part number on the box was 288xxx and the one I need is like 216xxx. Guess I'm calling the company I got it from on monday. So frustrating when I gave the guy the Andrews part number I wanted and he still sends me the wrong one. I had that same problem with Beachhouse HD in North Carolina where I gave them the part number and what I got was completely different part number. I know I don't have a speech impediment and speak pretty clearly. Again....frustrating.
I did, however paint my exhaust today. I didn't unwrap the masking tape I used to protect the collector. I think it'll look cool once installed. Chrome heatshields on top of black headers.
I spoke with Thedonthere about some things last night (Thanks again Don!) and he brought up the oil pump sumping. Is that when you turn the motor and the oil is being pumped out of the relief valve on the cam plate back into the cam chest or is that supposed to happen?
When I find TDC of the front cylinder I just can't get the crank to line up right. Frustrating. I'm not that far into it. I may pull the cam plate back out and start fresh the next round of wrenching.
Also, the 4* advance gear I bought was the wrong part number as I posted earlier. When I tried to fit it, the teeth on it are too wide and won't grab the chain. The part number on the box was 288xxx and the one I need is like 216xxx. Guess I'm calling the company I got it from on monday. So frustrating when I gave the guy the Andrews part number I wanted and he still sends me the wrong one. I had that same problem with Beachhouse HD in North Carolina where I gave them the part number and what I got was completely different part number. I know I don't have a speech impediment and speak pretty clearly. Again....frustrating.
I did, however paint my exhaust today. I didn't unwrap the masking tape I used to protect the collector. I think it'll look cool once installed. Chrome heatshields on top of black headers.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson, Oregon
Pretty cool Vic! Good to see the progress on it.
I'm about "this" far from selling my PC-V to my father (he's about done with his Fuel Pak) and going TTS myself. I know I'm tearing into my engine soon for cams/heads/compression....
and don't want to pay a tuner to take care of it.
Can't wait to see the end result Vic!
I'm about "this" far from selling my PC-V to my father (he's about done with his Fuel Pak) and going TTS myself. I know I'm tearing into my engine soon for cams/heads/compression....
and don't want to pay a tuner to take care of it.
Can't wait to see the end result Vic!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 1
From: Ashland Ore.
Vic hows it going? here's something else you'll need to do: After it's back together, leave the spark plugs out and turn it over with the starter and make sure your oil pressure light goes out. It may take a couple of minutes to get pressure but make sure that red oil light turns off. If it doesn't something is fked up with the oil pump. Once you determine that you have oil pressure put the plugs in and fire it up!
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee area
Before doing what Don said about cranking it without plugs, turn it over by hand, just to be sure everything's right and you don't crash valves into pistons (is the V-Twin is an interference motor - I don't know?).
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Passaic County, NJ
It'll get done. 
I may have time to work on it monday as my better half is off. We'll see how far I get.
Good tip. I appreciate that info.
I've cranked the motor over (by hand) and oil is flowing out of the relief valve on the cam plate back into the cam chest. Is that supposed to happen? Is that the sumping effect you were telling me about?
I'm trying to make sure that I set everything back up in time. It seems that when the crank lines up where it should, the piston is just slightly before TDC. I can't say how many degrees but it's a few. I'm not sure that would be enough to cause an issue but I'd rather not play with fire. I'll go back and recheck it.
Well, the gear FROM andrews is $51 and change. part number 216323 for 06+ dynas. The incorrect part number was 288020. So far, for someone who has never torn into a v-twin before it's been fairly simple stuff. I'm certainly not ready to be building 150hp twin cams. lol
I think it should bump it to close to 80hp or so, as a bolt-in cam. I'm around 72hp with my stage 1 + thunderheader.
I may have time to work on it monday as my better half is off. We'll see how far I get. Vic hows it going? here's something else you'll need to do: After it's back together, leave the spark plugs out and turn it over with the starter and make sure your oil pressure light goes out. It may take a couple of minutes to get pressure but make sure that red oil light turns off. If it doesn't something is fked up with the oil pump. Once you determine that you have oil pressure put the plugs in and fire it up!
I've cranked the motor over (by hand) and oil is flowing out of the relief valve on the cam plate back into the cam chest. Is that supposed to happen? Is that the sumping effect you were telling me about?
I think it should bump it to close to 80hp or so, as a bolt-in cam. I'm around 72hp with my stage 1 + thunderheader.