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Shock install without a jack ???s

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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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Default Shock install without a jack ???s

I am putting 12 inch shocks on the bike to replace my 12.5 shocks. Can I switch one out at a time without the need to have a jack? I am thinking because they are so close in length that I may be able to get away with this. Also does any one know the torque specs?

Let me know if this is not a good idea please. Any other tips? Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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I put the burley lowering blocks on mine without a jack. I did one side at a time with very little problem. I used the torque specs on the bolts of the kit, not sure what the factory bolt torque specs are.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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carefully... one at a time
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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The only trouble I can envision you having is getting the second shock off after you already compressed the rear end putting the first one on. The longer shock will be compressed and the shorter shock will be holding the bike down. Might make it a bit difficult to remove the second one...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:29 PM
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I did it one at a time when I put lower shocks on, I wedge a 2x4 with a rag under the left strut. So it was from the ground to under the strut to hold the stress of the right shock. Also works your trying to put the taller shocks back on. other wise it can be a pain
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 05:12 AM
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I can see a few problems as well. Without jacking it up and letting it hang straight up and down...it's also going to be tough to determine if you need any additional spacers/washer to get the shock straight up and down. Unless its the exact same width as the stock shock. You need to make sure there's zero angle on the shock, and that it travels straight up/down. I didn't see what year your bike is, but I have a 2009 FXDB, and the service manual says 30-40 lbs of torque on the upper and lower shock bolts. I just replaced my stock shocks with Ohlins, using a jack...and I definitely had to raise/lower it slightly a few times...letting the tire touch the ground to remove the pressure on the bolts to get the stocks ones off.
 

Last edited by Aaron 09FXDB; Feb 25, 2011 at 05:15 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 11:40 PM
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Thanks for all of the info guys.
I may just end up buying a jack at this point.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 09:56 AM
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i got it done without a jack but it wasnt pretty! i had to have a guy brace the front end while i jacked it up with a car jack. i figured as well i could just take one off at a time but the one shock compressed even more so i had to jack it up. it was my first time doing it so im sure i looked like an idiot. good luck
 
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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Duplicate
 

Last edited by h8ter; Feb 26, 2011 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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In my experience, one at a time isn't the best way to go. On my shovelhead I would roll the bike on to progressively taller blocks of wood until I could fit a 4x4 under the frame. I would start with a 5/8 piece of fiberboard, then a 2x4, then check for fitment of the 4x4. Basically a poor man's lift. Careful removing the bike.

If that doesn't work, I would often take a piece of 4x4 and place it under one side of the frame. Lean the bike onto the 4x4, and place a 4x4 and shim (5/8 fiberboard again for me) under the opposite frame rail. Then lean the bike onto the 4x4 and shim and place a shim onto the first 4x4. Repeat as needed, increasing the height until your rear wheel is off the ground. Easy!

If you don't feel like experimenting with that, Harbor Freight sells a decent lift for a great price. It's not a Handy that you'll have forever, but I've had mine for about three years and it still works great.
 
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