when to loc tite when to anti-seize
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 111
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when to loc tite when to anti-seize
When do you know to loc-tite and when do you know to anti seize. I am slowly putting my bike back together but I never know when to to use which? I am getting ready to put a new outer primary cover so I figured I would put some blue locktight but I am also putting a side mount license plate on my axel and I see the Powder Pro guru is putting anti-seize on his. Is there a general rule to follow here? Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 28
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From: El Dorado Hills
A rule of thumb I go by is, if you need to loosen the bolt or nut fairly often such as for maintenance and it's subject to corrosion or heat I use anti-seize, like axle nuts, exhaust bolts. I will also use anti-sieze if the bolt screws into a molded insert such as the shroud bolts on a mx bike (don't have to worry to much about those on street bikes though). If it's something that does not get loosened often like fender bolts, pegs, outter bolts on the motor, I use blue Loc-tite. On things like the stem nut, swingarm nut, anything that absolutely can not come off and is ok to take off with a impact, I will use red loc-tite. This is what I've done for many years building race cars, off-road buggies, and mx bikes and it's worked out pretty good for me.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 46
From: East Hartford, CT
I found on my last bike adding never-seeze to the regulator bolts helped the ground, so I did it on my streetbob. I've had to remove the regulator twice, one to install the oil cooler adapter and another time to fix the oil leaking from the adapter.
Yamabond 4 did the trick on the adapter for me.
Another good spot was the steering protector cap that you need a strap wrench to remove, so after adjusting the fall-away on the bearing I used never-seeze there.
That souldn't be that tight anyway.
Also the shift linkage in my way to change oil filter with fowards. I use a little there.
I use never-seeze on my grounding connections.
When I use stainless bolts in aluminum I also apply a little there to keep the treads from bugging up.
Yamabond 4 did the trick on the adapter for me.
Another good spot was the steering protector cap that you need a strap wrench to remove, so after adjusting the fall-away on the bearing I used never-seeze there.
That souldn't be that tight anyway.
Also the shift linkage in my way to change oil filter with fowards. I use a little there.
I use never-seeze on my grounding connections.
When I use stainless bolts in aluminum I also apply a little there to keep the treads from bugging up.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 12,946
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
~Joe
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 772
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
Don't forget to put anti-seize on the o2 sensors, and make sure the package says "sensor safe".
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 150
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From: Denver
I am a Foreman at a HUGE auto dealer and would like to think I know what is up. Use antiseize where two fasteners of different metals come into contact to prevent electrolsys and loctite when the two metals are the same. 1 exception is where there is extreme heat like an o2 sensor or a car brake caliper bolt. This is why you must use it on spark plugs. It has them both. Aluminum on steel and high temps. If not you will pull the threads out of your heads when you change the plugs.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lake City, Florida (Native)
Antisieze on Spark Plugs and Exhaust Clamps and a few other place that change often like Drain plugs and Derby Covers.. Some am sure will say use Loctite on Derby Covers but never had one loosen yet on me with antisieze and rode a lot of Ridgid Mount Sporties. Now some areas of Severe Vibration definitely use Loc Tite.. 90% of the Time Blue ..
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