I got them on and discovered a wrench is not necessary. Wow, what a difference, even over the T Sport shocks which will go on my Sportster. Yes, the reservoir is facing forward on them. I took a ride and now I really need to dial in front and rear properly. I have to bust out the tape measure and measure sag and such but it is raining here today so that will done another day. The shocks are 14" so 1/2" taller than stock. Next time I might go even taller like 15" but this will do for now.

I'll pics during the week and still waiting on my front wheel. I thought the bike handled good until I got these on. Anyway, hopefully this week the front wheel will be back and I can display her in all her glory.

These shocks are made by JRI and are recommended over Ohlins by Howard at Motorcycle Metal as they over more adjustability and a better ride, plus they cost about the same. JRI makes NASCAR shocks and such for those who do not know about them. A big thank you to Howard as well for getting these out to me extremely quickly.

All I need now is my S&S T111 motor which is way out of my price range right now.

 

I have been out of the country for the last 4 months and have not been able to follow your posts, I will eventualy go through them all, I can't wait. Have you come up whith a HID head light that will fit in the stock setup?

 

I have not done the HID yet. That is next. It's still wet and a bit rainy here today and raining tomorrow again so pics will have to be come Wednesday of where I am with the build thus far. I will grab an HID with a cable extension off ebay so I can put the ballast under the seat when I get the chance to do so. I am also thinking about this mod to make the ignition like the newer bikes.
REPLACING A DYNA OR SPORTSER KEYED IGNITION SWITCH w/KEY FOB CONTROL
The following was done to replace my keyed ignition switch on my 2000 Dyna Convertible after the switch quit working due to bad internal terminal connections. Harley knew this was a problem and supposedly fixed it, but there is no documentation that they actually upgraded the internal contacts. The problem is that many of us have changed over to brighter headlamps, converted our turn signals to running lights, etc. This puts a greater amperage load on the factory switch. The factory switch is not rated for that heavy of a load and has too light of terminals and that allows it to build heat and the terminals will melt into the plastic eventually losing contact and your switch will quit working. Before that happens your wires will start to melt the insulation and this will create a potential fire hazard and may leave you stranded. I chose to replace my ignition switch with a better system that does away with the key and reroutes the ignition switching through a 30amp relay which has very heavy internal contacts. This does away with having to use the key to turn the bike on and also cures the ignition problem. You will find that your bike will run better because it will now get a full voltage charge to the ignition module and coils. You will see that the bike starts easier and you should see that there will not be the draw down or dimming of the lights when idling.
I have listed the websites and products below that I used but that doesn’t mean you have to buy those exact products. I had about $52 in everything including shipping to make the change. I didn’t use a two position switching device which would allow the ACC wire and the IGN wire to be turned on separately like the original. If you look in your HD Service Manual the wiring harness chart shows the IGN wire will power everything if used singly. THIS IS NOT TRUE. BOTH THE IGN AND THE ACC wire must be powered when running the bike. The ACC wire is the position that is used if you just want to turn on the speedometer to reset the odometer. This can be done with the ACC powered on also. I chose to combine both wires together and have a one position switch. The following diagrams and parts are for a single switch hookup.
Once you have purchased the parts to make your conversion you can begin with the changeover. First remove your seat and unplug the black factory ignition switch connector (has 3 wires – RED, RED/Black, RED/Gray). Once unplugged remove the factory ignition switch or just clip the wires at the switch. I had to cut about 1” of wire off of the wires because of the melted insulation and then shorten the factory wire sleeve the appropriate amount. You will use the factory connector and make the rest of the connections shown on the Diagram.
NOTE: DO NOT COMBINE THE POWER LEAD FOR THE RECEIVER and THE RELAY POWER at TERMINAL 30. THIS WILL NOT WORK and WILL BLOW YOUR 10 amp FUSE. The RECEIVER MUST BE POWERED SEPARATELY.
Determine your location under the seat and cut the wires to the appropriate lengths. You will get terminals with the parts so you will only need one 6” length of Black 14ga. Ground wire and a ring style connector for it that fits over a 5/16” bolt. You will also need another ring connector to fit a 16-18ga. Wire which fits the bolt on the + Positive terminal of the battery. This terminal will be used to connect the RED IN wire of the Receiver to the BATT.
The RELAY KIT comes with the wire connectors and the relay Plug. I chose the kit because I wanted factory style connectors instead of just having wires plugged to the relay directly. There is a couple of advantages by doing this. One the wires are insulated inside the connector and the other is they are marked for the right terminals and you will not make a mistake or have a problem if you ever have to replace the relay. The relay is a standard item on many cars and is available at all parts stores so there is no real problem if you ever have to replace it.
SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS YOU MAKE, DO NOT RELY ON CRIMP CONNECTIONS.
1) Make your hot lead to the Receiver by cutting the RED IN wire on the RECEIVER. Place the Ring Spade on the battery and place the other two into the FUSE HOLDER. These will push up through the bottom first and then have the connectors Crimped/Soldered on. DO NOT put the connectors on first or you will have to remove them and start over.
2) Crimp and solder the WHITE OUT power lead from the RECEIVER to a connector for the RELAY HOLDER. Push the connector into the T85 opening from the bottom. It will click into place.
3) Crimp and solder the FACTORY RED wire from the FACTORY CONNECTOR to a connector for the RELAY HOLDER. Push the connector into the T30 opening from the bottom. It will click into place. This wire is protected from the factory by a 30amp Circuit Breaker.
4) Combine, Crimp and solder BOTH BLACK wires from the RECEIVER and a 6” piece of 14ga. BLACK wire to a connector for the RELAY HOLDER. Push the connector into the T86 opening from the bottom. It will click into place. Now place a Ring Spade connector onto the end of the 6” BLACK wire. This will connect to the Ground bolt on the frame.
5) Crimp and solder the FACTORY RED/BLACK and RED/GRAY wires from the FACTORY CONNECTOR to a connector for the RELAY HOLDER. Push the connector into the T87 opening from the bottom. It will click into place.
6) T87A IS NOT USED but if you want to power an accessory such as an alarm that will be powered whenever the Bike is turned off you can crimp and solder a wire to the remaining connector and push the connector into the T87A opening from the bottom. It will click into place. Keep in Mind that the T87A is POWERED when the RELAY is not energized and is NOT POWERED when the BIKE is ON.





FUSE HOLDER NOT SHOWN – I ordered the SP WPFHK W/P ATO/ATC FUSE HOLDER KIT. This kit is just like the factory Harley Fuse Holder that is weatherproof and has a cap that closes over the fuse.




The above diagram shows the use of the quenching diode and explains the reason for using it. Be sure that you order the relay kit with the diode (SP 30ARK-10/D 30 amp Relay Kit w/10ga DIODE) to protect the KEY FOB RECEIVER UNIT.
This is the completed unit as it installs under the seat.

I also wanted to retain the original ignition to plug the factory hole so I cut it apart, shortened it down to the shoulder that holds it from the back side of the mounting bracket and then filled the back with Black Silicone to make sure it would not rub on or short out anything. From the outside of the bike it still looks like an operational switch but obviously it is just a shortened hole filler.

In the picture, the switch is cut with the domed part to the top filled with silicone. The bottom piece is the threaded area that has the threaded nut to hold it. Once it is placed back in the factory switch hole it will look like it was from the factory and even accept a key. It just won’t work.
NOTE: THIS SHOULDN’T BE NEEDED, BUT, If you should ever have a problem with the Key FOB battery or the RECEIVER. You can BYPASS the RELAY by making a short wire with a Push Connector on each end that can be used to connect the RED wire to the RED/BLACK and RED/GRAY wires in the FACTORY CONNECTOR. This would be the same thing that you could do in an emergency if your IGNITION SWITCH burned out while you were on the road. You could make the wire by baring the middle of the wire and soldering the bared part into a push pin and then installing a pin on each of the two remaining ends. This will allow you to connect all 3 wires in the factory connector. This will power everything up to drive to a parts store or home. My suggestion is make the wire which takes up no room at all and carry it in your tool bag. Then you have it already just in case.

If you make the wire test it to make sure you know how to use it in emergency. It is very simple, it will power the motorcycle, but keep in mind that you can turn the motorcycle off with the OFF/RUN SWITCH on the handlebar, but you will need to pull the seat and disconnect the wire before you walk off and leave your bike. THIS IS FOR EMERGENCY USE ONLY – IN CASE THE BATTERY IN TRANSMITTER GOES DEAD OR THE RELAY DIES. I have been using mine for over 2 years (it is now Nov. 2012) with absolutely no problems and I am using the same battery that was provided in the Key Fob. I hope you enjoy this upgrade and share it with others who have the same problem.

 

Finally a picture of my bike with one wheel only. Still waiting on my front. Plenty of clearance between the bags and exhaust no matter what bags are run with the 14" shocks although it does not feel like I sit up any higher.

 

Drew, its' great to you finally getting your bike back. Thanks for the heads up on the ignition switch!

Keep ridin'
Garry

 

It is a word doc file that has pics and such if you want a copy let me know I can email it to you.

 

What do you think about the HD Daymaker™ Black LED Headlamp? $320 from LSHD.
I will inspect the switch, I'm going with LED turn lights so that should lower the amp load I would think, I'm not sure if the load eq draws much.

 

The Bike looks great, the Black spokes look good once you get the front your headlight sticks out allot farther than mine, did you move the faring back?
I loved the backrest with my sundowner, I'm thinking about the C&C solo with backrest but I have like 5 seats right now LOL

 

I got the front wheel back yesterday but it has been raining here for days so the front wheel will avhe to wait until tomorrow to go on the bike. I have a friend who has the LED headlight and hates it. He has offered to sell it to me for a good price so I might just pick it up. Dunno why my headlight sticks out so far. Maybe it is not the stock bucket. I'll ahve to look into this and figure out why.

I think and HID is a much less expensive option than the LED and most likely what I will do even if I pick up the LED headlight as I need super bright in the dark around here. After a big rig nearly ran me off the road I got a little bit upset.

Anyway I just talked to Howard at Motorcycle Metal and my JRI shocks are the "G" version with separate low and high speed compression and rebound valving. I will talk to him on the weekend or once it stops raining to get these dialed in properly as I told him I am at a loss with all the varying setting that they have. He told me the measuring sag (which I thought was the hard part) is the easy part.

Go figure. So by the end of the day tomorrow my bike will be back up and good to go. Next up is to put the FXDXT shocks on my Sporty. WooHoo!

 

Look good once the front goes on going to look nice!