forward controls question
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Stage I
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1
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From: liverpool ny
forward controls question
OK So I stopped into the dealer to pick up the forward controls kit that a buddy of mine was going to install for me.Parts dude at dealer tells me this is no longer an easy install.Tells me both the inner and outer primarys need to be removed. Dealer charges 3 hours labor to do the job,and by someone else doing it can void my warrenty...anyone been through this..any advice ?
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,414
Likes: 7,102
From: Beyond Fucital
Tells me both the inner and outer primarys need to be removed.
To install forward controls? Really? Sounds like BS to me.
I can understand the warranty void thing, being it's a new bike, and the hours sound about rite. But I don't know your bike.
To install forward controls? Really? Sounds like BS to me.
I can understand the warranty void thing, being it's a new bike, and the hours sound about rite. But I don't know your bike.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Southern Indiana
You can search here and find MANY that have switched from Mids to Forwards and not removed the primary, inner or outer (including myself). I still have the mid position shifter in the primary (in case I want to put them back on come resale time). No prob, although it has only been 6 months
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 756
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
the dealer sent me a pic of mine getting installed. I said, why is the primary off? "to install the fwd controls, of course".... huh thought I.
I did see a thread titled "fwd install without removing the primary", somewhere in this Dyna section. I have not done it, so I cant say....
I did see a thread titled "fwd install without removing the primary", somewhere in this Dyna section. I have not done it, so I cant say....
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas, NV
The dealer wants to remove the mid shifter shaft for the clean look which is also in their service manual to do. Then they want you to buy new inner and outer primary covers to cover the holes per manual maintenance. The HD kit comes with a plug for the outer primary and most just push the shifter rod inside the outer primary cover which will NOT cause any damage. With the shaft still in there, your inner primary will not leak any trans fluid either. Mine is that with no problems or leaks. I did swap my outer primary due to going chrome, not dealer peer pressure.
Last edited by WrayZor; May 12, 2012 at 12:13 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
OK So I stopped into the dealer to pick up the forward controls kit that a buddy of mine was going to install for me.Parts dude at dealer tells me this is no longer an easy install.Tells me both the inner and outer primarys need to be removed. Dealer charges 3 hours labor to do the job,and by someone else doing it can void my warrenty...anyone been through this..any advice ?
of the second quote below, and read the whole thread.Look up part numbers from the first three links below, check eBay or order from Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson. (Zanotti's and Chicago Harley Davidson give at least 20% off parts and accessories including aftermarket parts.)
Original Part Numbers (Parts that originally came on your bike):
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp
Find your year, model, part, then put a 1 in the qty box of the item or items that you want the part number of, then click on "add items to parts list", then click on "send to cart" to get the part number.
Genuine Motor Accessories Part Numbers (chrome, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Motor Clothes Merchandise Part Numbers (jackets, boots, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/mcm/m...bmLocale=en_US
Add /_ _ _ _ for size of an article of clothing after the part number when doing a search on Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson's website's?
small........................./000S
medium..................../000M
large........................./000L
xlarge......................./002L
xxlarge...................../022L
000's are zero's not letters
Lake Shore Harley-Davidson:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
Ebay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Motorcyc...y%252DDavidson
Original Part Numbers (Parts that originally came on your bike):
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp
Find your year, model, part, then put a 1 in the qty box of the item or items that you want the part number of, then click on "add items to parts list", then click on "send to cart" to get the part number.
Genuine Motor Accessories Part Numbers (chrome, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Motor Clothes Merchandise Part Numbers (jackets, boots, etc.):
http://www.harley-davidson.com/mcm/m...bmLocale=en_US
Add /_ _ _ _ for size of an article of clothing after the part number when doing a search on Zanotti's or Chicago Harley Davidson's website's?
small........................./000S
medium..................../000M
large........................./000L
xlarge......................./002L
xxlarge...................../022L
000's are zero's not letters
Lake Shore Harley-Davidson:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
Ebay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Motorcyc...y%252DDavidson
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)
Last edited by WS6 Formula; May 20, 2012 at 01:04 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: ann arbor, mi
They also told me I had to drop the swing arm and remove the rear wheel to install my passenger pegs..
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5th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Essex UK
I came across this too, when I was merrily fitting mine (HD parts) - and I realised I could go no further in removing the inner case due to the tools I didn't have!
I took it into the dealer in my van to finish, and coincide the visit with my first service. (wasn't too expensive really.)
I took it into the dealer in my van to finish, and coincide the visit with my first service. (wasn't too expensive really.)
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
I had mine done by the dealer. 4 hours labor. I have an extended warranty so I had them do it so I would not have any issues later. I also had a new outer primary cover installed because seeing the plug for where the mids were drive me nuts ( mental problems). Said and done it was so worth the money-will never go back to mids jmo
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