Handlebars, NOT internally wired
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 6
From: bfe
try a 2 foot piece of ceiling fan chain , it sure makes it easy
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
drill your own bars its easy, also you do not need to take apart the connectors as mentioned. you have a 2012 dyna in 2012 the dyna models stopped using the old style bulky connectors, they now use small connectors. i have ran the wires with connectors attached threw rsd vintage apes and west coast 12 inch mx bars.
so read the directions, and dont stress on taking apart the connectors..skip that step.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_262490/tm.htm
dont worry about your wires shorting out when ran internally, take your time do it right...itll be fine
so read the directions, and dont stress on taking apart the connectors..skip that step.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_262490/tm.htm
dont worry about your wires shorting out when ran internally, take your time do it right...itll be fine
Thanks for all the advice...i'm definitely going with internal wiring, just because it will look neater. May have to attempt drilling the holes myself because i can't seem to find the exact kind of bars i want that have everything i want (black, dimpled, knurled, 5-6" pullback AND DRILLED)...at least not for under $150. Yeah, i'm picky
Supporter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 627
Likes: 2
From: Salem, OR
When I swapped from the stock drag bars on my 2011 fat bob I tried going to 1" drag bars and didn't like them so got 35 degree Flanders drag bars and decided hell with it and to externally wire the controls and ran into this problem:
The hand controls either need to be cut down some where the bar meets the formed mount or the bar needs to be dimpled underneath to allow for the thickness of the wiring bundle to pass through without crimping and possibly severing the wires as the hand controls are tightened down onto the bar. As they were originally setup to run internally there is no adequate opening to allow the wires to pass between the ridges of the control housing and the bar.
The hand controls either need to be cut down some where the bar meets the formed mount or the bar needs to be dimpled underneath to allow for the thickness of the wiring bundle to pass through without crimping and possibly severing the wires as the hand controls are tightened down onto the bar. As they were originally setup to run internally there is no adequate opening to allow the wires to pass between the ridges of the control housing and the bar.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 205
From: ORYGON
IF you drill, make sure the openings are big enough and that you remove any sharp edges that can skin the wires.....removing the pins from the housings is super easy and way faster than cutting and then soldering back together....whole thing is pretty simple really n-joy....working on your own bike is the way to go...
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
When I swapped from the stock drag bars on my 2011 fat bob I tried going to 1" drag bars and didn't like them so got 35 degree Flanders drag bars and decided hell with it and to externally wire the controls and ran into this problem:
The hand controls either need to be cut down some where the bar meets the formed mount or the bar needs to be dimpled underneath to allow for the thickness of the wiring bundle to pass through without crimping and possibly severing the wires as the hand controls are tightened down onto the bar. As they were originally setup to run internally there is no adequate opening to allow the wires to pass between the ridges of the control housing and the bar.
The hand controls either need to be cut down some where the bar meets the formed mount or the bar needs to be dimpled underneath to allow for the thickness of the wiring bundle to pass through without crimping and possibly severing the wires as the hand controls are tightened down onto the bar. As they were originally setup to run internally there is no adequate opening to allow the wires to pass between the ridges of the control housing and the bar.
I'd probably run into the same prob because my setup is originally internally wired, and the bundle of wires is pretty thick too.
I found some Flanders that will be perfect...they're like $140 (little more than what i wanted to spend, but they got it all).
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
IF you drill, make sure the openings are big enough and that you remove any sharp edges that can skin the wires.....removing the pins from the housings is super easy and way faster than cutting and then soldering back together....whole thing is pretty simple really n-joy....working on your own bike is the way to go...
will do...if i do get the pre-drilled bars, i may have to do a little more drilling anyways. i've noticed that the holes in some of these bars are tiny. my current bars have a hole (oval) that's about 1 inch wide.
Anyways, if it was up to me, i'd just have a Fat Bob like you, and be done with all this
tHanks for the advice!!
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