Engine Build Time
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
SE lefty style bearing. It's basically the same bearing that's in there now but 'beefed up'. FYI, the SE 120R motor comes with the SE 'lefty' preinstalled in the left case half, and you don't read about it failing in that application. Instead of setting endplay like for the Timken you press out your old bearing and press in the new, and re-assemble.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
The lefty is a heavy duty roller bearing that replaces the OEM one and you install them on both sides. They should be stock but they are not. With a ballanced crank they should never fail. I had a bad crank and rods but my stock crank bearings looked great at 126k. Splitting the cases is easy on your motor. Much easier than a B motor.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
Maybe soon all this stuff will seem more easy to me. I have come a long way in about 16 months of owning my Fat Bob. I never did anything on my cars except change the oil(sometimes) before the Harley. It is addictive to me, I love being involved with a project - planning, reading, and executing. I just try to be a little realistic on my skills as I know there is a lot to learn and I do not want to get in over my head.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
Looking at the parts diagram for a 2012 FXDF it appears the Lefty bearing is already installed on your bike.
Edit: In both case halves too. Lucky you.
Edit: In both case halves too. Lucky you.
Last edited by mattVA; Jan 21, 2014 at 10:03 AM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
I agree with dji, send the whole bottom end in. Mine is there now. Crank true,weld,plug and ballance. Plus H beam rods and timken conversion with blue print reassymble.
And, I agree with you on having to stop spending money some where. I stopped at 107, figureing if I went to 117 I would need a larger TB new cylinders and possibly a switch to chain drive if you atart tearing up belts
And, I agree with you on having to stop spending money some where. I stopped at 107, figureing if I went to 117 I would need a larger TB new cylinders and possibly a switch to chain drive if you atart tearing up belts
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 17
From: San Jose
Like I said, I am having DH do a complete Bottom end. That includes, balanced, trued, plugged and welded crank. H beam rods and Timken conversion.
some might say the rods and Timken are over kill. I will feel a lot better this way. I hate that nagging feeling I get when I question if I should have done this or that. I eliminated the possibility of that nagging feeling.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
soft 02 attachment shows part 24004-03B, my part book has part 24605-07
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 215
From: Illinois
having just lefty bearings is way better than stock crap (ALLAN is lucky enough that the 2013's seem to have the lefty now) but it still has plenty of room to walk.
TIMKIN locks your crank into place and sets it! Simple as that. If youre going through all the trouble of having DH split & true everything you might as well get the Timkin (around an extra $500 through DH). Not cheap, but money well spent for added insurance of all the truing and balancing.
TIMKIN locks your crank into place and sets it! Simple as that. If youre going through all the trouble of having DH split & true everything you might as well get the Timkin (around an extra $500 through DH). Not cheap, but money well spent for added insurance of all the truing and balancing.