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If youre going through all the trouble of having DH split & true everything you might as well get the Timkin (around an extra $500 through DH). Not cheap, but money well spent for added insurance of all the truing and balancing.
Agreed but IIRC, DH charges about $300 for the Timken conversion machine work plus the cost of the bearing; not sure what the bearing cost is running now. The last one I sent in was two years back.
Alan, I have shipped the lower unit in heavy duty card board boxes. Get a box a bit over sized and wrap it the cases in some visqueen. Fill the voids with that expanding foam insulation to "seat" the cases in the foam so it won't move around. A little styro foam here and there and it's ready to go. That is if you decide to send the lower unit to DH.
You have several options to address the runout issue; you go with the Lefty bearings, the indy route for either the Timken/Lefty bearings or sending the lower unit to DH. I still believe you should err on the side of caution and any of the listed options is better than ignoring the runout issue. JMHO. You think your head is swimming now? Think about being in a similar situation a year or two from now should runout increase and really bad juju happens. Whether the runout was at .006" when the motor left the factory is unknown and that fact alone should be of concern because the crank may have already shifted; you just don't know. Do this once and do it right.
Cometic and S&S, IIRC, both offer a .027" MLS head gasket. JMHO, but keeping squish between .030" and .035" would be my target; the closer to .030" the better. I would not go to the trouble to shave the bottom of the cylinder but would purhcase a thinner head gasket to tighten up the squish.
Called Cometic and ordered the .027" and then called AMS and they will take the head gasket out of the package and credit me.
Hey djl, all good info and you know I am digesting it all! I think I will stick with using my Indy and go with the "lefty, lefty" or do the Timken. I will let him ship the crank out to get fixed by Darkhorse. Just think all I want is the plug/weld/true.
TR at Tman told me to shoot for 10.5 - 10.8:1. I told AMS to go for the low side of that range 10.5 - 10.6:1 because of the Texas heat.
I run the TMan 600SM in my all bore 107" which has an intake close 5* earlier than the 590 at 10.4 static which sets corrected at 9.6. I ride in south Texas so I understand Texas heat but I run on 87 octane fuel, year round, with no issues. I think you are wise to keep static below 10.6. IIRC, the later models are equipped with ACRs? If not, get in the habit of using the manual CRs all the time. It will extend battery and starter life.
Hey djl, all good info and you know I am digesting it all! I think I will stick with using my Indy and go with the "lefty, lefty" or do the Timken. I will let him ship the crank out to get fixed by Darkhorse. Just think all I want is the plug/weld/true.
Make sure you get the SCB $495 service for your crank. It reduces the vibrations. Worth it for a smooth ride while your doing it opposed to the SCNB $395.
John also added their own DH clip to the right side SE bearing on the outside so that it's also locked it even more. Not sure if your Indy can do this but worth asking(John said they are know to walk).
Make sure you get the SCB $495 service for your crank. It reduces the vibrations. Worth it for a smooth ride while your doing it opposed to the SCNB $395.
John also added their own DH clip to the right side SE bearing on the outside so that it's also locked it even more. Not sure if your Indy can do this but worth asking(John said they are know to walk).
Today I was unable to physically work on my bike at all(too many domestic duties), but I feel like a lot of clouds have been lifted by inputs like this. The Darkhorse price sheet was always a little hard to figure out, but I think I will do that $495 service and call it good! Thanks everybody!
Last edited by HD Pilot; Jan 21, 2014 at 09:13 PM.
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