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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 12:43 PM
  #111  
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Not sure it matters, but this pic shows numbers that are different for each cylinder so if you want to put the front one back up front again.

 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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I didn't know the front and rear cylinders are different, did not noticed that when I installed mine. I marked them anyway, back to where it was, always play safe lol.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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Might be casting #s cause the cylinders are interchangeable front to rear.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
Did not get much done yesterday other than cleaning the cylinder gasket surface and cleaning off the carbon on top of the pistons so I could get an accurate deck height measurement.

I used four 1/2" PVC threaded unions and the short head bolts torqued down to 15 ft-lbs and came up with a tad over .008" in the hole for both pistons. Using this number and say a .030" Cometic head gasket, I would have a squish clearance of .038" - that should be pretty good.
Cometic and S&S, IIRC, both offer a .027" MLS head gasket. JMHO, but keeping squish between .030" and .035" would be my target; the closer to .030" the better. I would not go to the trouble to shave the bottom of the cylinder but would purhcase a thinner head gasket to tighten up the squish.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Cometic and S&S, IIRC, both offer a .027" MLS head gasket. JMHO, but keeping squish between .030" and .035" would be my target; the closer to .030" the better. I would not go to the trouble to shave the bottom of the cylinder but would purhcase a thinner head gasket to tighten up the squish.
That sounds wise, but I am not sure the place boring out my cylinders will be able to supply those instead of the more normal .030". I'll give them a call but otherwise I will have to order them myself ~ $40?? What's more $$, I am in deep nowSee next post!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #116  
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OK, here is my big news on the crank run-out, been churning this decision around and because of the pain involved of shipping a crank/pulling the case/splitting the case I had decided to take my chances and not do anything but I got an email from a local motorcycle mech here that had helped me before and he said he could help me get it done. I will pull the case(75% there already) and take it to him and he will split the case for me, ship it to Darkhorse(most likely) and then reassemble the case with Timken on the left and a new bearing on the right too(can't remember what kind - maybe y'all can help?).

Anyway looks like I will have more work ahead and more $$ into the build but should be interesting and a solid build.

Sorry djl, no 117", got to draw the line somewhere, in my books that would be at least another grand and I have planned my cams/throttle body/etc for a strong 107" and that is where I am heading.

Thanks for everybody's input on the crank decision - I was "split" over it but looks like crank repair is coming

Soft 02 - watch over me pulling that case, probably wont happen until next week. I have to work to pay the bills Thurs - Sun.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #117  
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Pulling the case is easy without a top end or internal ballancers. Hope your Indy doesn't charge you much. Maybe 1/2 hour labor for teardown and 1 1/2 for set up with the timken.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
Thanks, but I almost wish that I had never checked the crank run-out, probably OK but eats at me
And Bam, that's all you had to say!

I knew that was coming
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
That sounds wise, but I am not sure the place boring out my cylinders will be able to supply those instead of the more normal .030". I'll give them a call but otherwise I will have to order them myself ~ $40?? What's more $$, I am in deep nowSee next post!
If the machine shop is buying from Cometic, they can purchase the .027" just as easy as they can purchase the .030"; Cometic sells both.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 08:22 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
OK, here is my big news on the crank run-out, been churning this decision around and because of the pain involved of shipping a crank/pulling the case/splitting the case I had decided to take my chances and not do anything but I got an email from a local motorcycle mech here that had helped me before and he said he could help me get it done. I will pull the case(75% there already) and take it to him and he will split the case for me, ship it to Darkhorse(most likely) and then reassemble the case with Timken on the left and a new bearing on the right too(can't remember what kind - maybe y'all can help?).


Sorry djl, no 117", got to draw the line somewhere, in my books that would be at least another grand and I have planned my cams/throttle body/etc for a strong 107" and that is where I am heading.
It might cost a bit more to ship the lower unit but I ship the entire unit to Darkhorse and let them split the cases, do all the work required and they reassemble and send it back. No extra cost involved and they look at the complete lower unit and cases and if they see something else, John will let you know. I really don't see any advantage in paying for someone to split the cases and then send the split cases and crank to Darkhorse???

I hear ya on the 117" although I don't see another $1000, maybe $700 for cylinders and case bore; you are already paying for pistons. Just a suggestion, as I told you, my only regret when I went all bore 107" was not springing for a crank and 117".

Good luck!
 
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