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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:45 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Following your HTT thread and if you split the cases its not that bad but you will be stocking up on ramen noodles till you get it paid off.
I will vouch for that! I'm almost at $5k with my current build, but she is going to be as bullet proof as you can get. A bit over $1,300 for darkhorse work.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:47 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by HD Bobber
I will vouch for that! I'm almost at $5k with my current build, but she is going to be as bullet proof as you can get.
Thats what I was shooting for. Bummed I didnt do the timken but when I found a crack in my head that killed my budget for that. Next I want a bullet proof tranny.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #103  
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Did not get much done yesterday other than cleaning the cylinder gasket surface and cleaning off the carbon on top of the pistons so I could get an accurate deck height measurement.

I used four 1/2" PVC threaded unions and the short head bolts torqued down to 15 ft-lbs and came up with a tad over .008" in the hole for both pistons. Using this number and say a .030" Cometic head gasket, I would have a squish clearance of .038" - that should be pretty good.

 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #104  
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The special tools you own is good enough to open a shop Allan! So jelly
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #105  
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I'm impressed with your level of detail. Makes me feel like I half-assed mine when I built it.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:51 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by 128auto
The special tools you own is good enough to open a shop Allan! So jelly
Yeah I meant to say something about that base you see in the pic! I found that 4" base at "The Tool Connection" online for ~$25 shipped. It holds the dial indicator from my Feuling Crank Run-out tool. If anybody is interested it is called a 4" SPI - Dial Indicator Depth Base for indicators with a 3/8" stem.
part # 12-438-8
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I'm impressed with your level of detail. Makes me feel like I half-assed mine when I built it.
Thanks, but I almost wish that I had never checked the crank run-out, probably OK but eats at me
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #108  
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I need a new dial. I'll check them out.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 12:36 PM
  #109  
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Removed cylinders, just slowly lifted with a little rocking motion. Heard too many difficulties removing/installing piston circlips so I bought a used Kent Moore EN-46745 Piston Pin Clip Remover for $70 that had only been used once before. For those of you that want to save as much as possibly, I have no doubt that I could sell this tool for say $60 so for about $10 - bargain in my eyes - but no, not for sale! Also in the pic are 6" pieces of plastic tubing to protect the cylinder studs and the new pistons.

 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #110  
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Used a 6", 3/8" ratchet extension and a rubber mallet, pins cam out easily.

 
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