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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 07:34 PM
  #351  
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A little more about the Hayden: Instructions has you shoot for 3/8" from the "floor" where the springs sit to the bottom of the shoe but mine is about 1/4" which has the chain tight. I have read and matt VA has told me that the distance will grow as you "break in" the shoe over time, so hopefully it will get close to that 3/8" target.

Remeasured my crank run-out with the new Darkhorse worked over crank/flywheel and came up with .0013" compared with .0061" before, so should be ready to romp!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #352  
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Yes I have read that too. It will breakin and sit lower, not to mention your chain will stretch a bit with time, so you'll be fine.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by HD Bobber
Yes I have read that too. It will breakin and sit lower, not to mention your chain will stretch a bit with time, so you'll be fine.
Hey HD Bobber, did you check your crank after you got it back, just curious...

Got some work done on the cam side yesterday. Had a good look at the oil pump and it looks like new. Installed the pump and new scavenge o-ring as per the HD SM. There are a lot of tips/recommendations out there about how to deal with the oil pump and the o-ring but I just could not see anything that made anymore sense than the HD way. Specifically, I installed the o-ring on the oil pump housing spigot and pressed the housing in and it seated in there with a solid feel as the o-ring went into place.

 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:57 AM
  #354  
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Checked to see how in line the cam and crank sprockets were as per the SM. Although I "passed" the HD spec of less than .010" difference, (I had .008" ) I decided to pull the stock .130" cam sprocket spacer and use the .140" spacer - much nicer!

 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:12 AM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
Checked to see how in line the cam and crank sprockets were as per the SM. Although I "passed" the HD spec of less than .010" difference, (I had .008" ) I decided to pull the stock .130" cam sprocket spacer and use the .140" spacer - much nicer!

nice going
might as well make it perfect
when i did my cams(chain drive) i bought all the spacers hd had then they let me return the ones i didn't use

This is a random comment, but i like the red assemble lube you are using. Seems easy to see how much you got in there.

i just put a good coat of my engine oil on everything, but when do it again i will try to remember the red stuff

almost done!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 12:52 PM
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after john's work my run out was .002 from like .007+
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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Just wondering...what's the stock spring pound pressure on factory harley 96" heads? Just curious.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 01:54 PM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by HD Bobber
Just wondering...what's the stock spring pound pressure on factory harley 96" heads? Just curious.
I have 2 different #s for stock 103" springs: 130lbs and 135lbs seat pressure that goes up to 310lbs at max lift. #s come from my notes, not sure where I got them.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #359  
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Looking good Alan! This thread is going to help a lot of us. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 10:15 PM
  #360  
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Back from a 4 day trip, hopefully tomorrow I can make some good progress. Tonight I thought I would take a look at my S&S lifters with the HL2T spacers. The black spacer seen on the left side of picture prevents the lifter from collapsing during high rpms and during engine start. The spacers take up .115" of the normal .200" lifter travel, so when you adjust the pushrods you bottom out the lifter then back out 1 turn(S&S Quickees) which is .031", a little short of the middle of the travel available(.085").

 
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