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I thought your clip is gonna be better. My only difficulty installing 107 is the wrist pin circlip, pain in the S. This clip is one time use only, if you screw it up, you are done!
Originally Posted by alansummrs
Put the Kramm-Lox piston clip in on the drive side of piston so I can install the cam side clip when the piston and cylinder is on the bike. As you can see by the surface scratches, the Kramm-Lox clips are no piece of cake either, let's just say I was glad I had glasses on! Don't trust the YouTube videos, they make it look way too easy and I bet they use a tired worn out clip.
All I can say is I really, really, REALLY wish that I had the standard circlips. Had to take the cylinder off the piston so I could get at the Kramm-Lox and after about 40 attempts I got the 2nd clip on and I can now slide the cylinder back on.
I do not have the CP Piston ring orientation instructions, are they the same as in the HD SM? Will try to find them.....
Done for the day, pretty disappointed with my progress. The Kramm-Lox clips and trying to put the cylinder back on over the rings wit popsicle sticks kicked my a__! A couple learning points for me and maybe others:
1) If you get pistons with the Kramm-Lox piston clips, get the better install tool, the tool that comes with the pistons is considered a one time install tool and is a POS for leverage.
2) The popsicle method for compressing the piston rings sucks, spent about a hour on them, then hopped in the car and bought a ring compressor for $20 at the local auto store and first try - cylinder completely on.
Remeasured my piston deck height and came up with about 3 to 4 thousanths in the hole. Previous measurement was ~ .008" in the hole. Have heard the CP pistons are a little taller but a bit surprised anyway. I have bought .027" head gasket, will be running tighter than planned, about .030" squish but still safe.
I have bought .027" head gasket, will be running tighter than planned, about .030" squish but still safe.
Alan. .
Keep in mind I'm no expert here. I've read some really try for 0.032"-0.033" squish. Might be pushing it at 0.030". Something to consider before moving forward, maybe the HTT crew can chime in. The tighter tolerance would require you to warm your bike up longer before each ride, no?
Keep in mind I'm no expert here. I've read some really try for 0.032"-0.033" squish. Might be pushing it at 0.030". Something to consider before moving forward, maybe the HTT crew can chime in. The tighter tolerance would require you to warm your bike up longer before each ride, no?
Matt
Would prefer .030" gaskets now but not finding any at 3.950". Most HTT guys seem good with ~ .030 based on this thread:
I just read thru your thread looking forward to your build being complete. I also ran the numbers best I can from what you have posted, looks like you will be in the 10.5 static range like you were planning on. I cant be 100% because I dont know the CCs of your valve pockets Back when I was reading and studying the Mopar threads they always recommended some modeling clay to check for your squish and valve clearance so you know for sure what kind of clearances you are working with since you have tightened up the tolerances alot it might be worth it to know great thread im jealous would have to win the lottery to build mine (3.935 bore/4.38 stroke/.027 gasket/.003 piston in hole/.00 CCs of valve pockets/83.3 head CCs = 10.77) 030 head gasket dropped it to 10.71 https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
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