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Got my HPI tb on finally, was a true pain in the ***. Trying to get the cam side flange holes to line up with the cylinder head holes was very frustrating. I was very careful though and took my time being careful not to cross thread those 2 fasteners. Now I know where the dings came from on my flanges(I bought a used HPI tb), they come from the previous installer banging on the flanges to line up the holes. I tried to be as gentle as possible but found that the flanges had to be "bumped" into position so you could safely thread the fasteners in.
Got my HPI tb on finally, was a true pain in the ***. Trying to get the cam side flange holes to line up with the cylinder head holes was very frustrating. I was very careful though and took my time being careful not to cross thread those 2 fasteners. Now I know where the dings came from on my flanges(I bought a used HPI tb), they come from the previous installer banging on the flanges to line up the holes. I tried to be as gentle as possible but found that the flanges had to be "bumped" into position so you could safely thread the fasteners in.
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it's really simple if you start your manifold bolts loosely before you torque the heads down
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That's definitely a new idea for me. Wonder if it is easier because the heads are a shade loose or because you have more room without the rocker housings/covers in the way or maybe both? The heads sure seem to go onto the cylinders tightly with those dowels but I do think having more room for my big hands would help....maybe next time, hopefully in a long time.
Easiest way to get the intake bolts in is with the rocker boxes off for a straighter shot and a ball allen with long extension. But if you're having trouble getting the holes lined up it's most likely because of the height of the heads. Depending on how much you deck the heads the manifold can be too wide. As you take material off and use thinner head gaskets you drop the heads, they get closer together and you have to remove material from the end of the manifold runners. The 2 piece hpi's are really nice because you can pull the throttle body off and line up just the manifold and flanges while looking from the inside until you get the ports and bolt holes lined up perfectly. If anything needs to be forced or struggled with or left loose to make fit then there's a problem and an interference. The throttle body should pretty much fall into place when fit correctly.
Well I had my heads decked .032" and using a .030" Cometic vs a .045" stock head gasket. I had read that .032" should not be a problem but I guess it did make things pretty tight. I really hope it will be good, did not have to force it too much - I put the end of my ball allen T wrench on the side of the manifold flange and with my other hand I "bumped" the flange toward the primary side and then threaded my fasteners in. I will give it a good check when I start it up, if I have any leaks, how much to you normally remove from the manifold runners?
Really good info, thanks.
Last edited by HD Pilot; Mar 27, 2014 at 10:44 PM.
Reason: Added
Oil should go back in the pan through the holes I enlarged on the rocker supports. Anyway, a good discussion for sure, enjoying the feedback
To what size did you boar out those holes alan? I beleive mine were enlarged to either 5/32ths' but there is still oil on the arlen ness back plate whenever I remove it for cleaning. On oil change I usually add the proscribed amount but I never add until she is below halfway up cold, and then onlt to 3/4 full on the dipper.
To what size did you boar out those holes alan? I beleive mine were enlarged to either 5/32ths' but there is still oil on the arlen ness back plate whenever I remove it for cleaning. On oil change I usually add the proscribed amount but I never add until she is below halfway up cold, and then onlt to 3/4 full on the dipper.
I used a 3/32(.09375"), stock was .060", most threads I have seen do not go any larger than 1/8(.125"). I have had a very small amount of oil show up at the bottom of my oil filter and backplate area.
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