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Mar 28, 2014 | 08:32 AM

#521

maddghost

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2008

Posts: 5,384

Likes: 12

From: Out on Deranged

Quote:

Originally Posted by alansummrs

I used a 3/32(.09375"), stock was .060", most threads I have seen do not go any larger than 1/8(.125"). I have had a very small amount of oil show up at the bottom of my oil filter and backplate area.

Well your building that motor to have fun with When you start twisting it is when the seepage occurs!
I've had my little 107 stage II up to 136 MPH, cars 1.5 miles ahead started to look like they were just stopped! That scared me enough to take it way back down to 90!

"NJOY!

Mar 28, 2014 | 09:09 PM

#522

target64

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 2,464

Likes: 50

From: Rouses Point, N.Y.

Quote:

Originally Posted by maddghost

To what size did you boar out those holes alan? I beleive mine were enlarged to either 5/32ths' but there is still oil on the arlen ness back plate whenever I remove it for cleaning. On oil change I usually add the proscribed amount but I never add until she is below halfway up cold, and then onlt to 3/4 full on the dipper.

Scott the holes where 1/8 in the rocker arm supports.

Mar 29, 2014 | 12:14 AM

#523

dirtdobber

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 4,749

Likes: 16

From: sand mountain Alabama

Quote:

Originally Posted by alansummrs

2" should not be a problem but I guess it did make things pretty tighWell I had my heads decked .032" and using a .030" Cometic vs a .045" stock head gasket. I had read that .03t. I really hope it will be good, did not have to force it too much - I put the end of my ball allen T wrench on the side of the manifold flange and with my other hand I "bumped" the flange toward the primary side and then threaded my fasteners in. I will give it a good check when I start it up, if I have any leaks, how much to you normally remove from the manifold runners?

Really good info, thanks.

If the close tolerances work for you, you will be ahead in the long run.

Mar 30, 2014 | 07:02 PM

#524

HD Pilot

Thread Starter

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 3,791

Likes: 57

From: N Texas

Got the HPI tb on and all connected up. Put my ac, horn/engine stabilizer, fuel tank, and adjusted my throttle cables. Tomorrow I need to put the battery back in, exhaust on, seat on, compression check and fire it up

has been a long haul, pretty nervous about hitting that start switch

Mar 30, 2014 | 07:07 PM

#525

HD Pilot

Thread Starter

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 3,791

Likes: 57

From: N Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by maddghost

I would be pretty nervous at 136 mph too, a ticket there would set ya back a little to boot! I kinda like the idea of 0 to 80 as fast it will go, leaving a little rubber

Mar 30, 2014 | 07:33 PM

#526

mud

Club Member

Joined: May 2006

Posts: 14,564

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From: the 50s & the 60s

Quote:

Originally Posted by alansummrs

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pretty nervous about hitting that start switch

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don't light it up until you see oil pressure.
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Mar 30, 2014 | 08:47 PM

#527

HD Pilot

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Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 3,791

Likes: 57

From: N Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by mud

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don't light it up until you see oil pressure.
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No oil pressure gauge, have oil indicator lamp that should go out when engine speed is above idle - not sure if I can make that light go out during a compression check or not

Mar 30, 2014 | 09:05 PM

#528

vdop

Road Master

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 854

Likes: 20

From: CT

It's always good to prime the motor. With the plugs out and fuel line disconnected crank it over. I only crank it for 10 seconds or so at a time to be easy on the starter. It will build pressure and the light will go out on the second or third try if all is well. You can usually hear the lifters pump up and stop ticking while it's cranking, then it should start up nice and quiet.