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Everything worked following your instructions until I got to step 5.
However steps 6&7 didn't work either.
BUT!!!, the good thing is that maybe it's not in the handlebar wiring. I don't want to mess with that again.
Why wouldn't steps 6& 7 work? Or are steps 5-7 all in module related?
I haven't tried riding / setting with the rolloff unplugged.
So, in step 5 you rolled the THROTTLE forward and felt a little click and nothing happened?
The light didn't turn green?
I didn't feel a click. When I normal throttle and release, I hear a click. Is there a different click it is supposed to make? I didn't know if I just roll it forward, it is supposed to make another clicking sound. I believe the cable is hooked up properly, because I can see one of the cables move when I "roll" forward.
And on step 5 is when the light STOPPED turning green. But it wouldn't turn green for the brakes either. Just flashed green at beginning step, and when I pushed the resume tab. If I try to push resume a 2nd time, it does NOT turn green. Just the first time I push it. If the rolloff part is bad, would it let it turn green at the step 6&7 for brake? Or does it fault the rest of the diagnostic test, since the rolloff failed?
Well, the cable and especially the switch can be damaged by being pinched in the tank mount.
Do the brake lights work ok?
Well, I just went for a quick ride. I unplugged the 2 wires to the rollloff wire and the cruise works. and actually, if I rolloff hard, it stops. But I always killed cruise with the brake anyways.
Now for brakes, yes and no. While it was blocked in, I put back in my stock ECM and FP3. I had a bad experience at a dealership and they replaced everything electronic and still couldn't fix the bike. Another dealer found a wire that was rubbing raw somewhere around the clutch cable. After stator, voltage regulator, coils, fuel system, wires and ThunderMax ECU, it didn't fix it.
I liked my FP3 and stock ecm. BUT... Although the fuse for the brake lights didn't blow, both turn signals came on (lights and dash flashing) and my voltage was all the way down and my oil pressure was all the way up. Maybe the ECM was bad also, or the dealer fried it working troubleshooting. Now I am getting ready to put the ThunderMax / O2 sensors back in. Probably wont be able to test until tomorrow.
Well, the cable and especially the switch can be damaged by being pinched in the tank mount.
Do the brake lights work ok?
Also, I wonder if they maybe unhooked those 2 wires and maybe plugged them in backwards???? Is that a possibility. Maybe my service manual lists the color codes for those wires.
Those two wires on the roll off switch can go either way, no polarity to them.
Dont know if this helps with my troubleshooting, however when I moved that connection and boot to a better location, I couldn't even get the green light on the initial startup or the resume button. Tried it a few times. Then moved the connection again and then got the green light the same as before (up to step4).
On a side note, O2 sensors get tightened down like a spark plug. I didn't know this and mildly damaged threads on my front O2. Putting back in wideband O2 sensors and ThunderMax.
This is what we are working on. Got to get it up and going for her!!!
That switch may have been damaged.
Broken inside with intermittent contact, resulting in what you're seeing.
Best thing short of replacing the cable is to just disconnect it and shut off cruise by brake.
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