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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I pulled the rocker arm covers off yesterday. Wasn't too bad to do, but it doesn't look like there'll be room to torque the rocker arms back down while it's in the frame :/
Worth a call to the seller; bet he will take $150 Buy Now.
There is room under the frame to torque the rocker arm support bolts. Have you removed the fuel tank? I use the "feel" method for tightening fasteners that cannot be comfortably tightened with a torque wrench. Tighten one of the bolts with a torque wrench then put a box end wrench on the torqued bolt and tighten those that cannot be tightened with a torque wrench to the same "feel" as the torqed nut/bolt. Haven't had one come loose yet.
Took the cam plate out tonight. The ebay bearing installer/puller has me a little nervous. The bearing puller is too large to thread into the alignment plate and looks like it has to be hammered onto the old bearing... Going to have to sleep on how badly I really need to change the bearings......
Took the cam plate out tonight. The ebay bearing installer/puller has me a little nervous. The bearing puller is too large to thread into the alignment plate and looks like it has to be hammered onto the old bearing... Going to have to sleep on how badly I really need to change the bearings......
That puller doesn't look like the right tool for the R/R of the inner cam bearings; Ebay strikes again.
YES IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!! The factory inner cam bearings are weak not to mention when pressing the cam back in. That would be the easiest way to get a new motor. Harley has upgraded timkens they are very popular. I believe only $25ish. As for the tool heres one that looks decent for the price i have the OTC brand tool and never had issues you can get or order them from any auto parts store. got mine from advance auto. heres the eco one http://www.heartlandproducts.net/inn...-puller-tools/
Took the cam plate out tonight. The ebay bearing installer/puller has me a little nervous. The bearing puller is too large to thread into the alignment plate and looks like it has to be hammered onto the old bearing... Going to have to sleep on how badly I really need to change the bearings......
YES IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!! The factory inner cam bearings are weak not to mention when pressing the cam back in. That would be the easiest way to get a new motor. Harley has upgraded timkens they are very popular. I believe only $25ish. As for the tool heres one that looks decent for the price i have the OTC brand tool and never had issues you can get or order them from any auto parts store. got mine from advance auto. heres the eco one http://www.heartlandproducts.net/inn...-puller-tools/
YES IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!! The factory inner cam bearings are weak not to mention when pressing the cam back in. That would be the easiest way to get a new motor. Harley has upgraded timkens they are very popular. I believe only $25ish. As for the tool heres one that looks decent for the price i have the OTC brand tool and never had issues you can get or order them from any auto parts store. got mine from advance auto. heres the eco one http://www.heartlandproducts.net/inn...-puller-tools/
Timken conversion requires splitting the cases and machine work and if the OP plans to split the cases, the Timken conversion is certainly an option; it's just money. Another option that does not require machine work is installing the better "Lefty" bearing on both sides of the crank; cheaper and effective for most 95"/98" builds.
OK, that answers the question. I took another look at the first picture you posted, zoomed in for a closer look. Based on your comment that the "bearing puller is to large" and "hammered into the old bearing" I am wondering if you just have a mis matched plate vis the puller or perhaps the kit is for the later models with larger inner cam bearings. The early models have inner cam bearings that are .875" ID but the later model inner cam bearings are 1" ID.
Also remember that the collet must be fully collapsed and even then, it will require a push to go into the cam bearing; not a hammer but a little nudge. It won't just slip in as it is supposed to flare out once through the bearing ID to the collet flange can grab the outer cage of the bearing.
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