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Everything is apart, and now I'm taking a beer break.
That snap ring on the output bearing is a real SOB, isn't it?
So far the only glitch I've run into is removing the trap door gasket. The bottom part (down by the exhaust bracket) is fighting me. Got some aircraft paint remover working on it now.
Omaha,I did the same job a few yrs ago. Went with the 33 pulley (was afraid the belt was too short) As far as special tools, I used 1/2 threaded rod and some steel stock and old bearing races to pull it together. Youll see when you mate the pulley to the new main gear how snug it fits.No more loose pulley.And yes, that snap ring was a bitch.
I got really lucky and was able to scrounge pro tools from a friend for this job. Race puller/installer and main gear puller/installer. Made the press fit parts of this a breeze.
As it sits, the trans is back together and the inner primary race is installed. I test fit the inner primary and it looks like the race position is right on.
This has gone incredibly slow, mainly because I had two friends stop by in succession. The first one had to tell me all about his tribulations getting his in-laws house refinanced. The second got into it with his wife and needed someplace to hide for a while.
After all this, I'm surprised at how small the pile of removed parts is.
Other than the inner primary bearing and seal, that's pretty much all of it.
Other random thoughts: The shifter pawl spring looked fine, so I just left it. It sure is a hell of a lot easier adjusting the shift pawl with the inner primary off the bike. One of the reasons I like doing jobs like this is it lets me de-gunk places I could never get to otherwise. Removing the crankshaft seal was no fun. Why did the MoCo use such an obnoxiously small snap ring on the shift pawl? I found a better one in my supply that still fits correctly but has bigger ears. Whatever that Cosmoline like goop Andrews uses is no joke. Stuff does not give up easy.
Had hoped to get this buttoned up today, but it's beer thirty and I'm out of gumption for now.
Well I thought about calling ya to see if you needed a break
Have friends stop by and it's all good till someone pops a tab.
Amazing how fast the work comes to a halt.
It's time to stop when that happens LOL
When you tighten the pulley nut, use the later model procedure instead of the torque spec in the 1990 FSM, which is torque to 50 ftlbs, then 30-45 degrees nut rotation. Get it close to 45 without going over to align the lock plate screws, don't forget the red loctite.
I don't like the clamp tool to hold the pulley, I put the belt on it, sit on the bike holding the brake to torque the nut to 50, then rattle gun to 45 degrees
Also check that the clutch hub doesn't contact the inner primary race.
That's a good tip. Thanks!
Got her on. God willing, this never comes apart again.
For crazy reasons I won't bother going into, I drug my air compressor down to my shop. So I'm left doing this job the hard way. Ended up recruiting my daughter to stand on the brake while I cranked it down. This beauty worked out perfectly.
PS: I think I'm done for the day.
Somehow I had the idea that the inner primary bearing would just pop out. At most, I figured a few taps with a socket and a dead blow would get it there.
Don't think so. Looks to be well pressed in. I don't have a press in the garage, so I'll have to take it over to Mark's tomorrow.
Should have cleaned the inner when I first took it off. The wobbling pulley didn't do it any favors, and there is a very rough lip on the edge where the seal goes. It should be usable, but is going to take a little massage.
When you tighten the pulley nut, use the later model procedure instead of the torque spec in the 1990 FSM, which is torque to 50 ftlbs, then 30-45 degrees nut rotation. Get it close to 45 without going over to align the lock plate screws, don't forget the red loctite.
I don't like the clamp tool to hold the pulley, I put the belt on it, sit on the bike holding the brake to torque the nut to 50, then rattle gun to 45 degrees
For tightening the pulley nut on my bike I turned a small piece of nylon rod to go though one of the outer holes in the rear disk and let it stop up against the brake caliper. Worked great and no mark on the caliper.
JR
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