When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Other than the first 2 startups, the rest of the "heat cycles" are a waste of time unless it has brand new valve springs. S&S assumes the engine is 100% new parts and the rider can't wait to go out and act foolish...
Everyone has their own ju-ju and by all means do what you feel best about. But if all you did was a cylinder hone and used same the pistons with new rings, do the first 2 warm-ups and forget the room temperature thing.
Tidy up other things for a few minutes (leave the heat shields off) then go ride 25 miles or so. Low speeds, no lugging or revving over 3000. Main thing is to try to keep it in a light/medium pull or be totally off the throttle as best that traffic will allow.
After that, just go ride for the next 250 miles or so, no lugging or high revs, occasional, brief hard throttle openings are good and avoid extended operation at steady rpms.
I've done of a lot of these - just like that. Never had one use more than 8oz of oil between 3k mile oil changes. But again, always do what you feel the most comfortable with.
No sound advice. On my Pan start ups it was always start, check oil return to the tank,get warm, shut off, re torque (if needed), cool down & repeat. After that it was as you say for the first 500. Wasn't sure if EVOs were a different breed. Bottom line is always, don't do stupid $**** while breakng in a new motor. went to 10 over on the pistons & rings, cylinder bored to match. I'd thought about what you suggest but figured it was easier and safer to just go up one and make sure it would fly right the firrst time.
No sound advice. On my Pan start ups it was always start, check oil return to the tank,get warm, shut off, re torque (if needed), cool down & repeat. After that it was as you say for the first 500. Wasn't sure if EVOs were a different breed. Bottom line is always, don't do stupid $**** while breakng in a new motor. went to 10 over on the pistons & rings, cylinder bored to match. I'd thought about what you suggest but figured it was easier and safer to just go up one and make sure it would fly right the firrst time.
Yes, slightly different animal - cast vs aluminum cylinders and a different rocker oiling system. But air-cooled is exactly that and heat is the enemy. With new pistons I'd extend my initial 250 suggestion to 500 miles, but stand by the rest of it.
I'm sure you've broken in more iron cylinders than I have so do it like you would a Pan or Shovel and you'll be fine.
These Evos don't need as many stationary "heat/cool" cycles as some suggest on initial break-in and re-torque of anything (short of heat shield clamps) should not be needed. Afterwards, the top end will cool much quicker than iron cylinders, especially if you park where there's a breeze. Even after break-in, they will do better overall to throttle real easy until they get some heat in the top end. Mine never gets over 1/4 throttle until the oil is over 100f.
Really enjoying your re-build. Curious, how did you solved the pulled stud issue? Heli-coil, Timesert, or? Asking for a friend.
The stud came out with the bolt which prevented me from being able to remove the cylinder. Problem is that the bolt got about half-way and froze up on the stud so I could not go either way. Ended up cutting the stud. Stud hole it self was fine fortunately.
So I got the Cometic kit and was looking and sorting the o rings and gaskets that came in a sealed packet. Have them figured out re: where they go but have a question on the paper and copper seals/gaskets that go on the top of the rocker boxes. When I diassembled the bike the only thing under the blots were thin paper gaskets that had glued themselves to the rocker boxes (and were a real buggar to get off). The Cometic kit has both paper and copper.
Do I use the copper gasket on the top of the cover and install the paper gasket over it? Just use the copper gasket? Install the paper gasket on the top of the rocker cover and then the copper gasket over it?
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 22, 2022 at 03:10 PM.
Use the fiber under plated flat washers for the valve cover screws. The copper will work OK under cap screws, but not very well under socket head screws.
So while I am waiting on a 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 bolt for the lower rocker box assembly, I figured I would get the cam cover in place after replacing the seal for the cam. Realized I had not yet checked end play clearance with the cover and cam in place and torqued to specs.
The Cometic kit includes 2 cam cover gaskets.
Engine case & cam cover holes
2 & 3 holes gaskets on engine case
2 & 3 hole gasket on cam cover
The logic says use the 2 hole gasket because the third hole is not used on my model. Just want to make sure that I am not overlooking something that seems to be very straight forward.
Disrergard the last please. Crap it is so obvious once I posted up the pics and went back to review. The difference is so blatant is should have kicked me in the teeth re: difference between the two gaskets once saw the pics of them on the engine case. My bike uses the 2 hole gasket.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 26, 2022 at 07:54 PM.
I really like Cometic gaskets, and think they fit real well. The brass washers in Cometic and James gaskets--I do not like so much. I recommend getting some metal washers, and putting the paper gasket under them. You would get a better torque on the rocker box bolts.
So I installed the EV 27 cam, installed new a cometic gasket, and torqued the cover to specs after adding a .050 shim. That puts my endplay at .023 (roughly half of the service wear limits).
I have/can add an .055 shim which would take the endplay down to .018; adding a .060 shim takes it down to .013. I believe I have a .065 shim which would drop the endplay down to .008. I think I need to reduce the endplay, just do not know how much.
What is considered "ideal" endplay? I could not find anything in my FLT EVO service manual referencing acceptable end play other than service wear limits (.050) at the beginning of the engine section. My Panhead service manual lists cam gear endplay at between .001 - .005. My Shovelhead manual list cam gear end play at between .001 - .016
I measured the endplay before I diassembled it all but I'll be damned if I can find where I wrote it down in my notes.
On a plus side... the cylinders, heads and such are all backtogether. I get the cam endplay set and I can install lifter blocks, hydraulic units and puushrod components and bleed the lifters.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 30, 2022 at 12:04 AM.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
