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So you had the swing arm off you put new shocks on and you still don't remember if you had a lowering kit. Eye yi yi yi yi .. Lol... I know you did so much to this it's hard to keep track of everything...
So you had the swing arm off you put new shocks on and you still don't remember if you had a lowering kit. Eye yi yi yi yi .. Lol... I know you did so much to this it's hard to keep track of everything...
How did you make out with the starter?
After reading Rizzo's post on his friend's cracked swingarm, I had an "oh $hit" moment and wondered if I had overlooked something so obvious. Being basically a "rookie" to the EVO platform has me reading everything twice and taking me twice as long do get things done.
Re: the starte motor...
OEM Starter Motor
Motor is mounted to inner primary. The coupler connecting shaft extension is flush against the surface of the housing and the coupler on the inner primary side is flush aginst the surface of the primary
All ***** Starter Motor
Motor is mounted to inner primary. The coupler connecting shaft extension is not flush against the surface of the housing and the coupler on the inner primary side is not flush aginst the surface of the primary
This gap....
...equals this distance (the coupler that goes into the inner primary will not seat all the way)
...because the coupler shaft extension that connect both components (starter motor output shaft splined end & splined end of shaft extension) extends too far into the inner primary. This moves the shaft extension out and also moves the coupler for the inner primary out further as well.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 11, 2022 at 07:49 PM.
I think you're diagnosis leans towards sending the starter back and getting another one... Too bad you didn't live locally to me.. I have a starter sitting up on the shelf brand new, I would let you borrow it just to test everything.. Any luck to getting a contact number to All *****? All I could find was this.. you have the documentation so send them an email with pics attached.. Can't hurt.. sales@allballsracing.com
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 11, 2022 at 06:58 PM.
98hotrodfatboy ... I am leaning that way but first I want to take the two starters to a buddy of mine and see if I am correct in my assessment on the All ***** starter. Tommy C's idea is definitely an option. The caveat there is knowing that once I open the All ***** starter up I am willingly voiding the warranty. Then the next step is to either replace the output shaft with the original from mine or figure out why the coupler will not smoothly slide over the output shaft on the All ***** starter motor, fix it, and reassemble what I have taken apart.
I would really like to avoid the downtime tho.
Got my cylinders and heads back, so now I am just waiting for the the replacemnt OEM cylinder studs I ordered (had to cut two - one on the front cylinder and one on the rear cylinder) as well as the Cometic gasket kit. Have the James Cylinder Base Gaskets, so once I get the cylinder studs I can get the top end at least partially back together.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 11, 2022 at 07:52 PM.
If anything I'm only seeing at most a 1'32" difference in shaft lengths but what looks to be an 1/8" between the coupler and the housing. Are you sure that the starter shaft is bottoming out on the circlip inside the coupler? Measure the distance that the circlip is from the end of the coupler. I think you'll find it's in there deeper then the length of the starter shaft. If you have a micrometer measure the shaft diameter of the All-***** to see if it possibly has a taper... My starter shaft is .498" no taper
Well the issue with the All ***** starter turned out to be the splines on the output shaft. Whoever cut the splines must have used a dull blade. Some of the edges of the spline were just ragged enough to prevent the coupler from fully seating against the face of the cover. Some lapping compound (and clean up to eliminate any/all residue) and the coupler slides like butter.
Starter motor back on the bike along with electrical connections
Starter jackshaft and primary components back on (still need to tighten/torque engine sprocket nut and transmission sprocket nut and adjust chain)
Outer primary cleaned and polished and awaiting install
You may already be aware of this, but just in case, if you tighten the long jackshaft bolt too much, it can cause starter gear engagement problems, blue loctite, slightly tighter than snug, and lock with tab.
Throw the primary cover on it with a couple bolts, couple drops of oil on the pinion bushing, give it a test before wrapping it up.
I am starting to think this will be the bike I see in Santa Monica this September!??!?!?!?
Yes
Originally Posted by Schex
You may already be aware of this, but just in case, if you tighten the long jackshaft bolt too much, it can cause starter gear engagement problems, blue loctite, slightly tighter than snug, and lock with tab.
Throw the primary cover on it with a couple bolts, couple drops of oil on the pinion bushing, give it a test before wrapping it up.
Wasn't aware of your point. I will go back and loosen. Thanks. I definitely have it beyound "slightly tighter than snug". When I removed it I was suprised at how easily it loosened once I bent the locking tab back. Now I know why.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 13, 2022 at 10:20 AM.
There should be a torque spec. for the jackshaft in the shop manual. I found 88 - 106 in-lb for touring models. I replaced the starter on my '94 Dyna last year and used a set of vise grips to hold the shaft in place while torquing down.
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