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So I took the shifter cover apart to inspect it, disassembled everything, inspected and cleaned all the moving parts and then reassembled..all looked good. New gasket and clutch adjustemnt (guess we'll find out if I did it correctly when I start it, take it out and see how it shifts).
Got cylinders and heads back with 10 over Weisco forged pitons, freshened valves and new seals.
I really questioned whether I should have the parts blasted or not but there were just to scruffy for me. I imagine there will definitely be some marked differences between the current "oiriginal" finish and the "newly done media blasting, but hey it it is waht is is at this point, more of a reclamation project rather than anything else... and a good EVO low miles runner.
That said tomorrow I will install the front and rear cylinders and pistons. Just need to affrim that I am correct with the base gaskets.
Unfortunately the Cometic top end kit is still not in after 3 weeks so Monday I will be conatcting my indie to see if I should go another route.
In the meantime I have what I need to open up the cam chest and do some work in there.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 16, 2022 at 10:11 PM.
Just so you know if you still have the trap door cover off, they make a 21* ramp that will give more separation to the clutch pack for better shifting and makes it easier to find neutral.
Pulled lifter blocks, removed cam cover and got cylinders back on as well as cam bearing changed out. I wonder how much money MoCo figured they saved by going cheap on the cam bearing?
Still have to clean up the mess from the sensor melt down and install the new component
And on that note, anyone have a better solution than using Goof Off to remove the melted residue. It is also on the bottom side of the right case.
At a standstill now re: motor reassembly due to awaiting parts (top end kit, seal that goes into the cam cover for the cam), but nice to know that everyting rear of the engine is completely redone
Just be civilized with a heat gun and a wood scraper so it won't scratch the aluminum. Take your time using the heat to soften the potting compound and the wood scraper (paint stirrer) should be the ticket. . Looks like an aluminum nose cone. So if no clear coat, then go for it.
Looks like that nose cone will polish up nicely. As far as the freshly blasted cylinder heads, try taking a STAINLESS STEEL bristle brush to the fins. It will shine them right up.
So I took the shifter cover apart to inspect it, disassembled everything, inspected and cleaned all the moving parts and then reassembled..all looked good. New gasket and clutch adjustemnt (guess we'll find out if I did it correctly when I start it, take it out and see how it shifts).
Got cylinders and heads back with 10 over Weisco forged pitons, freshened valves and new seals.
I really questioned whether I should have the parts blasted or not but there were just to scruffy for me. I imagine there will definitely be some marked differences between the current "oiriginal" finish and the "newly done media blasting, but hey it it is waht is is at this point, more of a reclamation project rather than anything else... and a good EVO low miles runner.
That said tomorrow I will install the front and rear cylinders and pistons. Just need to affrim that I am correct with the base gaskets.
Unfortunately the Cometic top end kit is still not in after 3 weeks so Monday I will be conatcting my indie to see if I should go another route.
In the meantime I have what I need to open up the cam chest and do some work in there.
PaleHorseRider, This is what S&S recommends. I was going to post later when I got ready to start the bike, but nows as good as time as any. And anyone with other recommendations are welcome to post.
S & S Cycle recommends the following: On initial engine start-up, run the engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack the throttle or subject the engine to any loads during this period. The head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. Check to see that oil pressure is normal and returning to the tank and there are no oil leaks. Turn off the engine and let cool to the touch.
After the engine has cooled, start up again and run engine no longer than 3-4 minutes. When the cylinders become warm to the touch about 150’ shut the motor down and let it cool to room temperature. Repeat this procedure 3 to 4 times, each time raising the running temperature 10’ and gently vary the rpm from idle to 2500 in the final cycle.
The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break-in, most engine damage will initially occur during this period. Keep the heat down by not exceeding 3000 rpm, and vary the speed. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components and willvoidyourwarranty. If you feel the engine is running hot, pull over to let it cool down. Sometimes, just the trip back home is enough to overheat the engine.
The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3500 rpm or the 55-65 mph. range. Do not lug the engine, and continue to vary the speed. Up to 1000 miles the speed can be run up to 75mph, continue to run the engine at all different speeds including the lower 45-55 mph range. Good common sense with a realization of what is really happening inside your engine is the best way to approach proper break-in.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 21, 2022 at 11:37 AM.
Other than the first 2 startups, the rest of the "heat cycles" are a waste of time unless it has brand new valve springs. S&S assumes the engine is 100% new parts and the rider can't wait to go out and act foolish...
Everyone has their own ju-ju and by all means do what you feel best about. But if all you did was a cylinder hone and used same the pistons with new rings, do the first 2 warm-ups and forget the room temperature thing.
Tidy up other things for a few minutes (leave the heat shields off) then go ride 25 miles or so. Low speeds, no lugging or revving over 3000. Main thing is to try to keep it in a light/medium pull or be totally off the throttle as best that traffic will allow.
After that, just go ride for the next 250 miles or so, no lugging or high revs, occasional, brief hard throttle openings are good and avoid extended operation at steady rpms.
I've done of a lot of these - just like that. Never had one use more than 8oz of oil between 3k mile oil changes. But again, always do what you feel the most comfortable with.
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