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Me too! But hey, it is what it is. Thanks for the info tho. Goiod to know and should be helpful for others.
This is what I get for being late to the game - was gonna take one of mine off before riding today to measure the hole size since I couldn't remember but didn't have to take one out, it was already missing, ever since I'm not sure when, but recently.
Anyway, it's 1-1/4" and that size is closer to $3.00 each at (s)lowes hardware.
Go deeper. The outer most edge should be just barely flush with the fork eye.
I always got them close, then put the inner spacer washers in place and test fit the fork on the transmission standoff. It needs to be a rather snug fit, as in - you should need a rubber mallet to drive it onto the transmission so there is a bit less than zero play between the fork and trans.
PS. They're extremely difficult to install without damage unless you have the special tool
Go deeper. The outer most edge should be just barely flush with the fork eye.
I always got them close, then put the inner spacer washers in place and test fit the fork on the transmission standoff. It needs to be a rather snug fit, as in - you should need a rubber mallet to drive it onto the transmission so there is a bit less than zero play between the fork and trans.
PS. They're extremely difficult to install without damage unless you have the special tool
Pic from the service manual...
Please understand that I am not disputing what your are stating. The rubber mount is clearly flat (no space for the lip of the collar). Just trying to understand. The whole EVO Bagger is brand new to me. My background is in Shovels and Pans, so this is a steep learning curve for me. I loath doing thiongs twice.
Sorry, I should have been more clear.
What I was saying, put both blocs in and with #s 17 and 18 in there on both sides, if you can feel any left / right of the fork when it's on the transmission, they need to be a little deeper. Swingarm needs to be fairly snug on the transmission, ideally to the point it'll almost hang there, even without the pivot axle thru the fork and trans. I always had to go a little deeper with the blocs than the book shows to make that happen, but don't go so deep you can't get it on the transmission.
It will go together just fine like you have it. When the foot board mounts are tightened against the isolator blocks (#24), it'll push/flex the center of the clevbloc against #18 spacer, pushing each side snug against the transmission. But that inward flex and push keeps the clevbloc in a slight bind. Best to have the center spacing closer to where that sideways pressure on the bloc is minimal when assembled Follow me? Or have I confused things even worse.....
Common complaint about these was the swingarn would wiggle in a curve with a bump or seam in the road. The clevblocs would flex, letting the rear get out if line with the front and make for ill handling. That's why many have replaced the blocs with bearings to eliminate that. But if you get that spacing closer to what I (hopefully) described, it'll be a lot better handling and they'll last longer.
So the ***-end is done and back together (minus brake fluid). Rebuilt swingarm suspension, new shocks, repacked wheel bearings, new rubber, rebuilt rear brake caliper, new brake pads, added progressive 412 shocks to replace the original ones. Cleaned polished everything I could (sans saddlebags...that I will work on once I get the top end tore down and the parts out to the machine shop).
And in prepping for the top end, I got the fuel tank off late this afternoon and began the take-off of the carb.
Have to say that North Carolina ridng conditions were not kind to the bike. Couple of pics. Lot of cleaning, scrubbing and polishing is in the furture while the top end is at the machine shop.
I would suggest that the carb filter element has probably never been off the bike. The buttonhead allen that holds the air cleaner cover on would not come off. You could get it about 2/3 of the way out and then it would just spin. I used my Dremel tool to cut throught the screw.
With the tank off I was looking to see how to get the top end apart. WTF? There are two allenhead bolts on the left rear head that are inaccessible with a standard allen wrench. Going to have to cut down the short 90 on one of mine in order to access them. You'd think that HD would have at least had a could of holes in the top of the frame so that you could get at the head screws.
And it's not like there aren't holes already in the top of the backbone of the frame that lead to nowhere.
Okay....rant over.
Last edited by panz4ever; Mar 24, 2022 at 02:15 AM.
I don't think North Carolina was harsh on the bike... I think the previous owner just didn't take any care of it at all and you're right about the holes in the frame for rocker covers on the rear. They started putting them in the Softail frames though.. I don't know when they started but my 98 has it.., I don't know why they didn't put them in any others.. It's looking good though and when you get it done you'll have a very reliable ride...
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