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Actually tried to use bolt cuters to get at the rear bolt head but that was a miserable fail, for me anyway. Couldn't make a dent in the cylinder bolt using 24" cutters. Used my Dremel with a 3.5 in cut off blade. Used shop rags that I doused in water, wrung out and wraped around everything and every nook and corner. Figured the moisture would catch the metal being cut. Seemed to work. When I pulled the rags away there was no metal flakes to be found. Score one for the good guys! Thanks to all for the input on that mess.
The oil around the inside of the back of the primary appears to becoming from the oil seal on the inner primary mainshaft seal.
Have to say I am suprised the engine fired at all what with all the rust on the wires. That amount of crud had to be a major draw on cranking power.
Got the heads and barrels into my mechanic for a re-work. Doing complete valve job, new pisotns & rings, cylinder honing to match (5 or 10 over). Be at least 2 weeks.
In the interim I've got a lot of cleaning and polishing to do.
Thinking of adding an EV 27 cam since I'm going to pull the cone cover in order to replace that gasket. Going to stick with the original pushrods unless someone can give a solid reason to switch to adjustable.
Going to use Cometic gaskets. Only exception will be the cylinder base gaskets; those will be from James.
Last edited by panz4ever; Mar 25, 2022 at 09:31 PM.
Panz, good job on getting the cylinder stud out. You didn't mention if you are raising the compression with your top end build or leaving it stock. If you leave it stock the EV13 cam works well for heavier bikes because it comes on earlier and the power is in the low and mid range where you do most of your riding. The EV27 is a fine cam but comes on a little later and is more of a mid to high range cam. The EV27 also likes more compression, say 9.5-10.0/1. The EV27 is also know to be noisy when using stock push rods, using adjustables you can set the push rods into the lifters which will help quite the lifter some.
For lifters, OEM are a little pricey but will last your lifetime.. Or S&S..
Might want to reconsider the EV 27 for a heavy bike. The V-thunder EVL 3010 is an overlooked Cam that works very well, it has nice bottom end. Friend of mine had it in his Road King and it performed very well..
Service manual states I can change out the oil pan gasket with the motor in the frame. Requires removal of the front engine mount and raising motor. Since I am changing out the front mount (new rubber), how far do I need to raise the front of the motor in order to slide the pan forward and remove it from underside of transmission?
Service manual states I can change out the oil pan gasket with the motor in the frame. Requires removal of the front engine mount and raising motor. Since I am changing out the front mount (new rubber), how far do I need to raise the front of the motor in order to slide the pan forward and remove it from underside of transmission?
Well this is one of those where you answer your own question bt "just doing it". Basically you lift the motor to whatever it takes to remove the oil pan.
New front motor mount installed along with new oil pan gasket.
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