1996 flht
I went with this one. There is a metal washer on each side that is fitted into a slot in the rubber. One of the washers was marked "up" so that is why it is postioned so. And I just looked at my parts book. I only show 16207-79B. The ebay part states it's good for 80-08. It definitely seems sturdier.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304103279222
I had to remove the bolt from one end of the stabliizer link, but I did not mess with the adjusment length. It was a real bear getting the bolt back in place.
98hotrodfatboy, it will be probably 2-3 weeks for my indie to get the top end back to me (been using the same guy since the early 90s). He's the best in the Bay Area, but is up to his neck in work. He's even added a couple of extra helpers and is still backed up. This will give me the chance to clean & polish a lot of parts (the back side of the inner primary is really bad from the seal leaking). Once the seal comes in, I can get the primary back together. I get that done I'll dive into the carb when the rebuild kit arrives.
Also ordered the S&S tappets. They defintiely are not cheap, but I am keeping the bike, so I'll get out of it what I put into it. I have an EV 27 cam that has only about 50 miles on it so that will save me some bucks. Also looking at the fully adjustable pusrods (ones I do not have to pull rocker box covers). S&S adjustables have you cut down to tubes for sizing , so I want to avoid that. Andrews seems like a good choice as well. Just need to find them. Just started looking.
Last edited by panz4ever; Mar 27, 2022 at 11:33 AM.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304103279222
I had to remove the bolt from one end of the stabliizer link, but I did not mess with the adjusment length. It was a real bear getting the bolt back in place.

Yeah, you can't get he OEM -79B anymore, though they were still available thru Buell for a while. Some guys claimed the 79B was softer than the C, but I could never tell any difference. I think last one I bought, they were up to -79D made in China of course, but still high quality.
Next up on the list is changing out the 50 amp fuse. Can't say that my 65 FLH or 84 FLH would have started with these type of end connections on the starter motor and circuit breaker.
And I need help finding some zip ties. They are not the normal type. They have a nub on them end that pushes into a hole in the frame. Think there are at least four.
Adjustable push rods are not needed for your application, just one more thing to deal with adjusting. Top end is off anyway, just drop the stock rods back in and forget about them. Inner cam bearing is a must, I have had success with stock lifters new from the factory.
Someone earlier mentioned the shifter lever clamped to the shifter pawl. Very common issue, the pawl gets rounded and it is a major job later to fix. On your year bike you either remove the full primary or gut the transmission to get the pawl out form the inside.
In your state of deconstruction I would remove the shifter and give the pawl a good once over. Baker makes a better shifter arm, someone else makes a two piece design that allows removal with dissembling half the motorcycle. Worthy upgrade and zero effort at this stage. Total nightmare later (like being at the Canadian/Maine border, ask me how I know????).
https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...nt=23522349379
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
And I need help finding some zip ties. They are not the normal type. They have a nub on them end that pushes into a hole in the frame. Think there are at least four.










