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.070/.0295 should be a very good starting point for your motor, prime idle screw mixture will be 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for optimal idle... This should be an indication that the proper intermediate jet is in use..... The accelerator pump's going to be anywhere from one and a half to two full turns out from totally seated.. As for the 3 1/4x 20 screws for the air horn, absolutely necessary to use blue loctite.. Not sure how that cam and carb will react to stock baffled mufflers...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 4, 2022 at 11:24 AM.
Not sure how that cam and carb will react to stock baffled mufflers...
And they are seriously baffled. I was going to see if I could mod mine, somewhat like what Fullsac does with later model HD OE slip-ons, but the baffle is only one inch all the way through on the ’95 touring slip ons, with two “plugs” in each mid way. Even if you used a step bit with an extension and drilled out those “plugs” you still have a one inch baffle. Fullsac uses a larger baffle for even their quietest welded-in insert. Their "middle of the road baffle" is 2”.
Is the second vacuum port for the vacuum operated petcock?
Mufflers, that vintage the "plugs" are not in there all that tight, think freeze out plug on an engine block. Long handle star drill should punch them right out. Then we would just start the bike and they would go flying across the garage.
Is the second vacuum port for the vacuum operated petcock?
Mufflers, that vintage the "plugs" are not in there all that tight, think freeze out plug on an engine block. Long handle star drill should punch them right out. Then we would just start the bike and they would go flying across the garage.
Good times.
I drilled a half dozen 1/4” holes in all four of those plugs. It didn’t occur to me that they might punch out. I was trying to do the mods in “stages” to get the sound I wanted. Louder than stock, but not loud. They are much quieter than current production M8 touring slip-ons.
Drilling those holes had little to no effect so I am guessing that even punching out the plugs the exhaust would still be quiet. I sold the bike to a good friend last week who I expect will take the slip ons off altogther.
Punching them out, the bike sounded about the same at idle. But in the higher RPM's getting on her, it at least sounded like a Harley. It was a no money upgrade for us poor boys back when, I am sure it would still work today. I probably still have a set of mufflers for my Sporty in the shed that we punched out in 1991. I know I have the straight pipes we "made" by installing a 24" long straight pipe from a hot rod shop onto the stock head pipes, after removing mufflers. Then we got fancy and cut the cross over off and welded the holes closed. High heat BBQ paint and I was all that and a bag of chips at the bar that night!??!?!?!
Paint lasted about a week on the head pipes, but she sounded great. I am sure those pipes are in my shed. "Vintage speed equipment"
So, every seal and gasket from the motor on back has been changed out. Like I mentioned earlier, the only thing I haven't done is split the cases or gutted the tranny. All cleaned polished and reassembled (except for pushrod covers).
Got the front tire off to replace the rubber. Pulled the front fender to give it a good cleaning. Took off front fender tip, lower trim and spears as well (there was a lot of built up dirt and grim under it all and even more inside the fender).
Pulled the front brake calipers to rebuild them and found this on the left caliper bracket. Pads look almost new but whoever did the work did not do a correct install. The pin on the bracket is munched. The guide pin is bent as well. The guide pin I can straighten out, the bracket will need replacing. The pin on the bracket is loose (I checked the right and it does not move).
So one step forward and one step back... Pulled the outer faring to take a look at what's behind there. I do believe there is more wiring in this front end than my other four bikes combined.
The reason is two-fold. The radio is not functioning. Manual suggests that with no power the cause is a relay gone south. There are three, just need to figure out which one. At least tho I cvan get one thru my auto parts store. Did a thread seach and found one related to the relay. Standard Motor Products #RY116 is a direct replacement.
Now comes the question. I need to change out the fork fluid. There are two methods and I am thinking it will be the long way since I have no air valve on my left handlebar. Grips were replaced at some point. I'll pull the left grip and see if the valve is there so that I can do it the short cut way. If not any tip, tricks, suggestions on taking off the inner fairing (and all that goes with it) and handlebars in order to get at the cap nut on the tubes?
Last edited by panz4ever; May 8, 2022 at 11:59 AM.
Also, check the tops on the existing black supports to make sure they are not broken. The part has been updated a few times with a folded over weld that is less likely to break. Lots of aftermarket plastic versions out there as well.
As far as fork oil, there are two ways: the real, by the book way, which is through the top and then the second, easy way through the bottom.
I recently paid HD to do it the correct way while it was in for other work. It was billed as a 4 hours labor plus incidentals. I would not have requested that if I knew it was going to be an additional 675 bucks.
The second, easy way is you pull the drain screw, measure what comes out and then pump the same amount back in from the drain screw. I have not tried it myself, but it was on my radar before it wound up going into the shop on it's own.
I had it done the easy way years ago and had no issue. A friend with a 92 had it done at the same time and it either messed with his seals, or being filled the correct amount made an existing seal issue noticeable.
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